I loved being in Parma, one of Italy’s most elegant small towns. Its name conjures up images of some of Italy’s most beloved foods, which are produced in this province:
Proscuitto di Parma…
In fact, Parma’s specialty foods are so revered, that on the outskirts of town you’ll discover the Musei del Cibo (Piazzale della Pace, 0521821139) , which includes the Museo del Proscuitto di Parma, Museo del Parmigiano Reggiano, Museo del Salame, Museo del Pomodoro, and in May, a Museo della Pasta was added to the mix! You can visit each to get a bit of culinary history, and of course, have a taste.
Add to the delicious tastes, the lovely atmosphere of the town’s historic center, for a Golden Day in Parma:
Begin at the Pasticceria Torino (61 Strada Garibaldi Giuseppe, 0521235689), where you’ll elbow in with the locals for buon cappuccino and a choice of scrumptious pastries…
Head to the Piazza Duomo, home to some of Italy’s most glorious medieval architecture: the Romanesque Duomo…
Inside the Duomo is an amazing fresco in its cupola: Correggio’s Assumption of Mary. It’s a dramatic Renaissance wonder!
You’ll enjoy strolling through the historic center, flanked by cyclists, as most of the area is pedestrian only…
A great place to stop for lunch is Salumeria Garibaldi (Via Garibaldi 42, 0521235606), where you can choose from a top selection of cheeses and cured meats, and sit at a wooden table with a tumbler of local wine…
You may also wish to visit the Camera di San Paolo, where you’ll find beautiful mythological scenes by Correggio, painted on the walls and ceilings. Always looking for the female angle, I love this place because it was once the reception area of a rich abbess, Giovanna da Piacenza, who hired Correggio to decorate her place so splendidly!
An afternoon activity I loved was a cooking class with Micaela Sini Scarpato. Micaela’s a young, energetic signorina, who I found through The International Kitchen ,a Chicago-based company that offers classes all over Italy.
The class takes place in Micaela’s cozy apartment kitchen, where she taught me how to make tortellini stuffed with spinach and ricotta, just as she learned from her grandmother.
We also made Rosa di Parma, braised beef stuffed with proscuitto, and enjoyed the whole meal at her elegantly set dining table.
That was all I could eat that day, but if you stay around, here are some more recommendations:
For extraordinary gelato and sorbets, go to Ciacco (Viale Mentana 91/A, 0521 570208). It’s run by two young guys who are dedicated to using the highest quality ingredients. Their pistachio is out of this world!
For aperitivo, Via Farini is lined with places where university students spill out to the sidewalks. Check out Le Malve (Via Farini,0521230260) for pizza,cocktails, wine, and a great selection of cured meats.
Restaurants to try are:
La Greppia (39/A Strada Garibaldi, 0521233686), Parma’s legendary place for elegant dining and refined cuisine. They have a great wine list, and do a wonderful job with the specialties, and secondi such as veal with balsamic vinegar. Save room for fabulous desserts from the trolley!
For something more casual, go to La Forchetta, for homemade pastas, such as tortelli d’erbetta.
I enjoyed staying at Hotel Torino (Borgo Angelo Mazza 7,0521281046), a simple, modern place, in a great location…
But going fancier, right near the Duomo, is the beautiful Palazzo dall Rosa Prati (Strada al Duomo 7,0521386429)…for next time…
To have the full Parma experience, I also recommend you check out the schedule for Teatro Regio (Via Giuseppe Garibaldi 16/a,0521039393) a jewel box of a theater that has an excellent season of opera and concerts.
Our wonderful Golden Days in Italy intern, Whitney Hickey , has a passion for Italian soccer (futbol), and is counting the moments until the game on Saturday, June 14, when Italy takes on England in the 2014 FIFA World Cup. It’s 6:00 p.m. EST in the USA.
Here is Whitney’s Report…
At last the moment futbol fans across the world have waited for: The FIFA World Cup Soccer Tournament! Thursday, June 12th marked the start, with 32 countries attending. The games began with the host country Brazil taking on Croatia(3-1). Over the next month millions of futbol fans worldwide will tune in to cheer for their favorite teams.
Here’s mine…Gli Azzurri! The name and the color of the uniforms comes from “Azzurro Savoia”(Savoy Blue)–the color inspired by Italy’s former rulers, the Royal House of Savoy.
Italy is among the best of the competing teams, ranking second behind Brazil. Gli Azzurri have won the title four times — in 1934, 1938, 1982, and most recently in 2006.
This year Italy is in Group D, with Uruguay, Costa Rica, and England, one of the tougher groups. While there are several names to watch for, Mario Balotelli (Striker) is one to know. Mario was born in Palermo, Sicily but was put into foster care at age 3. Balotelli officially gained citizenship in Concesio in August 2008. After the ceremony he released the following statement: ” I am Italian, I feel Italian, I will forever play with the Italy national team”- Mario Balotelli. The true pride of Italians. In the games ahead, Mario hopes to achieve the title as the “Worlds Best Striker”. Andrea Pirlo, the 35-year-old midfielder with 13 goals on 109 international caps is another name to watch out for in the World Cup games.
I’ll be watching in Cleveland, but if anybody out there happens to be in Rome, here are a couple of suggestions to join in on the excitement…
- Scholars Lounge(Via del Plebisito 101) The lounge has 19 screens to watch all your favorite teams play and has english commentary for travelers.
- Feria c/o Lanificio, (Via di Pietralata 159) Rooftop screens to watch the world cups game at one of Rome’s popular discos.
- Eutropia, (Piazza Orazio Giustiniani) This bar prepares meals to of the countries competing. For example, On June 16th you will be able to try food from Iran and Nigeria! A special that you won’t find everywhere!
To keep up to date with all the matches, click on Official Website of FIFA
Grazie Whitney! We’ll keep watching your reports on Twitter.
My dear friend, the wonderful writer Ellen Sandler, raved to me about her time in Bologna. She and her daughter Molly signed up for Carmelita Caruana’s Cook Italy class, and had in Ellen’s words, “The most AMAZING EXPERIENCE!” Ellen joins lots of fans on Trip Advisor who have loved taking Carmelita’s classes.
Carmelita is originally from Malta, and has been passionate about cooking since an early age. She fell in love with the beautiful city of Bologna, acknowledged food capital of Italy, aka La Grassa=the Fat, which is shorthand for the abundance, fertility, and generosity that characterizes Bologna. In 1999, she set up her cooking school here, Cook Italy, offering fun hands-on classes for very small groups or individuals. She is also a food writer, has taught internationally, and collaborated on fund raising events with British and US chefs.
I love the motto on her blog: “Nothing I like more than feeding people, except perhaps teaching people to cook great Italian food!”
I am so grateful Carmelita has joined in to give her expert advice for A Golden Day in Bologna…with a culinary focus, of course!
The day begins with caffe. There are many good places, but the absolute tops is Caffè Terzi (Via Oberdan,0510344819). I highly recommend their Caffè Pistachio, a beautiful little treat,everyone snaps a photo of it before drinking it.
Photo Credit: Zacqary Adam Xeper
Nearby, the gastronomic temple to marvel and worship at is La Salumeria (Via Oberdan, 051 233692). All Bologna’s culinary pride and joy is here: the very best cured pork products, the very best hand rolled egg pastas, a range of excellent cheeses including an award winning 30 month old Parmigiano-Reggiano, the best Mortadella di Bologna I.G.P. and Mortadella’s older brother, Salame Rosa. Like Mortadella, Salame Rosa is a highly prized cooked pork product, made in Bologna since at least the middle ages, which is unfortunately at risk of dying out, as it is so little known outside the city limits. At La Salumeria you get wonderfully courteous smiling service to all customers, old and new, by a staff of 6 led by the friendly expert owner Franco Macchiavelli who willingly hands out tasting samples.
Related to this, is the plaque near the corner between Via delle Pescherie and Vicolo Ranocchi, in the area of Bologna’s oldest food market, dating back at least 1,000( yes one thousand!) years known as il Mercato di Mezzo. The plaque, placed on an impressively large Gothic building, states that the Guild of the Salt Curers occupied the building from 1242 to 1798. So Bologna did not become a Foodie Capital yesterday!
My Cook Italy Market-to-Table Classbegins at 8:45 with a market tour, where we shop for the best ingredients of the season and have tastings of Bologna’s special products.
Then back in the kitchen of my apartment, we have a hands-on class, with me demonstrating techniques when necessary.
Guests can choose what they would like to make and eat—so perhaps we’ll make egg pasta from scratch or a contemporary style Italian lunch, or a specialty from another region of Italy.
Of course, it ends with a great meal, and a very good bottle of wine, selected by a sommelier to match what we make.
You are unlikely to want to eat dinner on the evening of the cooking class! But here are some suggestions if you stay on…
My favorite Gelateria is Cremeria Funivia (Piazza Cavour, 1/d, Closed Monday,0516569365), but I am also very partial to the salted pistachio sold at Cremeria Santo Stefano (Via Santo Stefano 70/C, 051 227045) too.
For Aperitivo, my favorite is Gamberini (Via Ugo Bassi, 051 2960467). They serve gorgeous little canapès, freshly prepared for the antipasto buffet. There are two outside seating areas but I prefer to stay inside, to see what fresh little snacks are coming out of the kitchen. Everything here is delicious! The breakfast croissants, the little cakes for mid-afternoon, the lunches and of course the aperitivo drinks and buffet.
There are so many restaurants to choose from! Here are two of my favorites…
Trattoria di Via Serra (Via Luigi Serra, 9/B,0516312330 Open 12-2 p.m. and 8-10 p.m.) is a short walk beyond the train station. It’s a very charming little trattoria, with simple rooms where you get a warm welcome and attentive service. The menu is short and focuses on quality ingredients, with the name of the breed and the farmer listed in the menu description. While everything is good, perhaps the pasta and meat dishes are best. Vegetarians can eat here, but the choice is limited..
Photo Credit: A Pranzo con Bea
Teresina(Via Oberdan Gugliemo 4, 051228985)remains a favorite of mine nearly twenty years on, I love its pretty courtyard, too. I usually go for the fish side of the menu, though the beef Tagliata is exquisite. For dessert, I recommend sharing one of their super cannoli – just a simple, very light well whipped ricotta cream filling without any candied fruit or chocolate – with the crispest crust.
Here are places I recommend for you to stay in Bologna:
Also, the Hotel Roma (Via D’ Azeglio, 9,051226322) is good value for money. It too has great staff and its location is hard to beat!
And there is Villa Benni’ s 2 extremely spacious double rooms (plus use of a period sitting room, incredible dining room and even more amazing spacious, cool and quiet gardens all round). It’s pricey for a Bed and Breakfast, but in fact a great value, since you will feel like royalty staying in this gorgeous neoclassical Palazzo just outside the city centre with the very frequent number 20 bus to the centre stopping just outside.
Photo Credit: Villa Benni
Grazie mille Carmelita, for this delicious advice! I’ll be sure to stop by Cook Italy next time I’m in Bologna…
It was delightful to discover Ciao Bologna, the blog of an American expat couple, Audrey and Luke, who have been living in Bologna for two years. In Audrey’s words: “I left my corporate job in the networking industry to follow a handsome biomedical engineer to Italy, where he was sent for a work assignment. Living in Italy has kindled my passion for good food and its power to build community and healthy food cultures. In my free time, I volunteer with Slow Food Bologna, work on organic farms through WWOOF (Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms), linger in Bologna’s farmers’ markets, and enjoy traveling Italy to try each region’s unique cuisine. I’ve also been exploring my family’s Italian roots (my great-grandma is from Molise and my great-grandpa from Calabria) and I’m in the process of applying for Italian dual citizenship.“
Ciao Bologna showcases Audrey’s passion for discovery, including beautiful photos and such great posts as Best Gelaterias in Bologna and a Day in Modena. I’m thrilled she’s joined in to share her advice for A Golden Day in Bologna:
I feel lucky to have landed in Bologna, often named as one of the most livable cities in Italy. Bologna is a medieval city, home to monumental dishes like tagliatelle al ragù, tortellini in brodo, and lasagna alla bolognese.
Photo from http://www.myunox.com
It’s also a modern and progressive city with a gastronomic revolution in full swing. Here I offer up a Golden Day in Bologna that offers up a mix of old and new; one that includes options for lighter fare, takes you outdoors, and gives you a sense of Bologna’s fresh flair.
Start out at Fram Cafè (via Rialto, 22/c, 3334355545 – Closed Sat morning and Sun), a cozy cafe owned by mother-daughter duo Elena and Nicole.
Next, walk to Piazza Santo Stefano– my favorite piazza in the city. Find a sunny spot to sit along one of the ledges and take in the scene.
Check out the Basilica di Santo Stefano, also known as Sette Chiese (seven churches) because it was seven churches connected; four remain today. Legend goes that Dante spent time here in 1287 and characters in his Divine Comedy were inspired by the capitals in the cloister courtyard.
Next, stroll the city’s famous historic market quarter, the Quadrilatero, to oogle at fresh produce, prosciutto, and cheese. Check out famous shops: Atti, Tamburini, and Simoni and the grocery and cookbook sections of Eataly. Stock up on souvenirs: I like the 10 year-old slightly sweet balsamic from Gilberto (they do tastings on request).
Here are some ideas for lunch:
La Baita (Via Pescherie Vecchie 3a – Closed Sun,051223940) where they serve meat and cheese plates by region: Emilia, Romagna, Toscana, and more.
Prima della Pioggia (Via de’ Falegnami, 14 ,051271296), a bright bistro where Mediterranean flavors meet modern English influences.
After lunch, enjoy an outdoor spot, such as Giardini Margherita, just outside Porta Castiglione. Walk the mile loop around the park, plant yourself in the grass, or grab a bench for some people watching.
Or there is Parco Villa Ghighi, a tranquil park in the hills with a great view of Bologna’s city center. Walk to Porta San Mamolo, cross the boulevard, continue to the second branch street called San Mamolo (you’ll see bus stop 29-Villa Ghigi; you can pick up the 29-B bus on Via Rizzoli). The branch street takes you into the park. Walk up hill until you find a good view.
If you’re in the mood for gelato, go to La Sorbetteria (Via Castiglione 44, Closed Monday, 051233257). Or try the Cavour, made with bits of pastry crust and Amalfi lemons, at Cremeria Funivia (Piazza Cavour, 1/d, Closed Monday,0516569365). Their pink grapefruit (pompelmo rosa) and almond (mandorla) granita are also excellent choices.
If the afternoon is young, check out Bologna’s gorgeous history museum in Palazzo Pepoli (Via Castiglione 8, Closed Mon). The displays are in Italian but English audio guides are available. I recommend the second floor, which covers more recent history.
Photo by Peter Zullo http://www.nuok.it
Now you have a choice of wonderful places for aperitivo…
Camera a Sud (Via Valdonica 5, 051 0951448 ), a bar with a hipster-vintage vibe serving food and drink in the ex-Jewish Ghetto. Go early or reserve a table.
Enoteca Italiana (Via Marsala 2b, 051 235989), a wine shop/bar where you can grab vino with a plate of meat and cheese. I recommend local favorites pignoletto frizzante (a sparkling white wine) or Sangiovese (red wine).
Here are some ideas for dinner:
For meat eaters and traditional Bolognese cuisine: Go to Vicolo Colombina (Vicolo Colombina 5/b, 051233919 ), just steps from the main piazza, Piazza Maggiore. People rave about their lasagne alla bolognese and torta di riso.
For seafood and vegetarian: Head to Sale Grosso (Vicolo De’ Facchini 4, 051 231721 -Closed Sun-Mon)
Stay at Hotel Touring (Via De’ Mattuiani 1/2, 051 584305). They have a rooftop terrace with a 360° view of Bologna’s skyline of red roofs. In the spring and summer, you can have breakfast or aperitvo on the terrace; there’s also a jacuzzi!
Here are some other tips:
From June 20 – August 14, there’s free outdoor movies at night in the city’s main piazza, Piazza Maggiore.
On weekends and holidays the city shuts down two perpendicular streets in the heart of the city center (via Rizzoli and via Indipendenza) allowing pedestrians to enjoy a leisurely stroll.
Don’t forget to take a gander at the Due Torri, Bologna’s twin towers–they are hard to miss!
Grazie mille Audrey! I hope to meet you when I return to Bologna….soon!
It was great to discover Emilia Delizia, a website that offers travelers a wide range of experiences to discover the delights of Emilia Romagna–from Gourmet Food Tours and Pasta Making Classes to tours of the Ferrari and Lamborghini car factories. Gabriele Monti is a writer and tour guide on the website team, who loves to welcome visitors to his homeland.
I’m grateful he’s joined in to give his advice for a Golden Day in Ferrara:
Located on the Po River, the city of Ferrara is abundant with ancient churches, royal castles and medieval fortresses. The unique combination of modern environment and antique buildings has created a thriving cultural and historical centre, where tourists can enjoy a memorable vacation: from classical Ferrarese Salama da Sugo to fine art exhibitions. Start out at the Ducal Palace Castello Estense (Via Largo Castello, 1,0532 299233), that was the fortress of the noble Este family from the 14th to 16th centuries. The castle is surrounded by a moat; two of its floors – the ground and the first floor – are divided into large chambers with painted ceilings, dungeons where prisoners were held, and areas such as the ducal kitchens and chapels. Besides the galleries, the fortress has four towers, built to defend its residents from different viewpoints. A panoramic view of the city of Ferrara can be reached from the Lion Tower.
Photo Credit: Citta D’Arte Emilia Romagna
Another beautiful place is the Palazzo dei Diamanti. The distinctive Renaissance architecture of this building resembles diamonds with pinkish, pyramid-shaped stones. Built in the beginning of the 16th century, now the palace serves as a National Art Gallery, displaying works from its permanent collection on the ground floor, mainly from the 14th to 18th centuries, including Mantegna’s Cristo con l’animula della Madonna and hosting international art exhibitions, featuring such masters as Matisse. Indulge in the local cuisine at Antica Trattoria Volano, (Viale Volano 20, 0532.761421), a fifteen minute walk from the city centre, where you can enjoy such delicious Ferrarese specialties such as cappellacci di zucca, in a cozy atmosphere. If you’d like to experience Ferrara’s splendid natural surroundings, go to the Po River Delta Park, alternatively known as the European Capital of Birdwatching. It’s an ideal spot for water sports activities, from self-drive boat rentals to organized excursions and fishing tours, with gourmet meals and guided tours that introduce travelers to the history and culture of Emilia Romagna.
Photo Credit: FerraraFoto
Birdwatching is a major attraction in the park–you can see the Great Crested Grebe, the Collared Pratincole, Cormorants and even pink flamingoes. A great place to stay is the welcoming Alchimia B&B (Via Borgo Dei Leoni, 122, 05321864656), a medieval building, with spacious guest rooms that have been designed in modern style. Grazie mille Gabriele–I’m looking forward to returning to this beautiful spot!
Photo Credit: FerraraFoto
We’ll begin in the town of Modena, home to beloved Traditional Balsamic Vinegar.
For a Golden Day in Modena, begin in the Medieval town’s pedestrian only historic center, which fans out from the Piazza Grande, the 12th century Romanesque Duomo and Tower–a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Nearby, is the covered daily Mercato Albinelli, a football-field sized paradise of tidy stalls stocked with tempting greens, fruit, cured and fresh meats and baked goodies, graced by a lovely bronze statue in the center. Stop for a panini at Vino e Panini (Via Albinelli, #13).
Cobblestone streets in the Medieval historic center are lined with shops that sell luscious homemade chocolates, fresh pasta, and countless bottles of their “black gold” — balsamic vinegar. A great stop to buy local products is Enogastronomia Giuseppe Giusti Srl(Via Farini, 75059222533)
If you’re in the mood for something sweet, slip into Pasticceria San Biagio( Via Emilia Centro,77059217284) , that’s been famous for over a hundred years for its outstanding Marrons Glacèes and typical Modenese sweets such as the Barozzi Cake and the Amaretti of St. Geminiano.
Amaretti of St. Geminiano
My most memorable time in Modena was a visit to tour the Acetaia di Giorgio. The acetaia is in the attic of the home of a charming couple–Giorgio Barbieri and his wife Giovanna. The moment Giorgio opened the door I was hit with the eye-watering aroma of fermenting vinegar!
“One conducts an acetaia, a person doesn’t own it… it’s a living thing,” Giorgio told me, as took me up three flights of stairs and showed me around his vinegar loft. At 6 feet 8 inches tall, the genteel, slim retired national volleyball player is a master conductor. Using a giant glass dropper, he meticulously decanted vinegar from one antique barrel to another, while explaining the vinegar-making process he learned from his grandmother, which involves judiciously transferring grape must from year to year to barrels made of different woods, so a variety of flavors is absorbed into the liquid.
Barbieri is one of fifty-five producers approved by a government run consortium to make what is considered “real” balsamic, labeled Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, and stamped DOP, which stands for Denomination of Protected Origin. A rigorous testing process must be undergone to meet the consortium’s standards. Barbieri’s vinegars, which he ages from twelve to twenty-five years, have always passed inspection.
“I’ve never had real balsamic vinegar before,” I said, amazed, when I tasted a demitasse spoonful he offered me. The thick, syrupy condiment burst with a balance of sweet and sour flavors that didn’t come close to what’s called balsamic in the states. After seeing the meticulous production process, and the daily dedication this tradition takes, I’ll never balk at paying for the real thing again.
Giovanna made lunch in their downstairs dining room that opens to a garden. Aceto balsamico was featured in every delicious dish, including pumpkin tortellini with sage butter and an arugula and apple salad. This lunch remains up there with one of the best meals I’ve ever had in Italy!
We had a light dinner that night at Trattoria del Giardinetto (Piazzale Boschetti 1, 059234448), where you can enjoy such classics as Gnocco Fritto di Modena (fried pasta pillows) or housemade tigelle (small savory flatbreads) with cured meats.
The 3-star Hotel Estense , is a great place to stay, with simple, chic rooms and a great breakfast buffet.
For more on the Modena Market, click here for Travels with Tricia’s beautiful Blog Post
Calabria’s star art treasures are The Riace Bronzes: Two Greek bronze sculptures of warriors from the Fifth Century, BC.
They are stunning glorifications of the ideal male form, with rippled muscles, majestic stances, exuding an air of mystery.
Their discovery was simply miraculous: In 1972, a chemist from Rome was snorkeling off the coast of Riace. He caught sight of an arm emerging from the sand, that he first thought was a dead body. Moving closer, he realized he’d stumbled upon an ancient masterpiece…and then found another nearby! He called the police, the sculptures were dredged up, and found to be in excellent shape.
Today the Riace Bronzes are the symbol of Reggio Calabria, the capital of the region of Calabria. They recently were restored and are displayed atop marble pedestals at the Museo Nazionale della Magna Grecia in the southern Italian city of Reggio Calabria,.(aka The National Archaeological Museum of Reggio Calabria), open Monday to Sunday 9:10am- 7pm, Call (+39) 3207176148 for reservations.
Photo Credit: http://www.madeinsouthitalytoday.com/
Be sure to reserve in advance for your visit–keeping in mind that it’s best to go in the early mornings, before the tour groups crowd in. You’ll be shown a video about the statues, taken to a filtering station, and then brought into the climate-controlled room for 20 minutes to admire these astonishing pieces.
For a Golden Day in Reggio Calabria, have lunch at Ristorante Baylik (Vico Leone 1/3/5,0965 48624,Open for lunch and dinner) for traditional seafood dishes, such as spaghetti con bottarga di tonno or mixed grilled fish.
Enjoy a walk along the Lungomare, and stop in at the city’s beloved gelateria, Cesare (Piazza Indipendenza, 01287.170805). If you’re there in the summer, you may even enjoy a show at the Arena dello Stretto, with stunning views of the sea.
For dinner, reserve a table at Officina del Gusto (Via Placido Geraci 17/19, 0965.332830,Open only for Dinner), an elegant and friendly place with a fantastic wine list, that serves delicious traditional specialties, using organic products, including great beef selections.
If you’re spending the night, check into the sweet Possidonea B&B
Be sure not to miss these astonishing treasures when you visit Calabria! Click Here for Tourist info...And if you are there this summer, Click Here for Info about the Special Exhibit welcoming back the Riace Bronzes…Buon Viaggio!