Golden Day Sixty-Nine: Delicious Salerno with Arthur Schwartz
One of the most wonderfully delicious times I’ve had in Italy was when my husband and I joined Arthur Schwartz’s Cook at Seliano group in Paestum.
Arthur is a passionate expert when it comes to Italian cuisine—check out two of his many inspiring cookbooks:
Naples at Table and The Southern Italian Table. It’s great fun to be around him and his co-host, Baronessa Cecilia Bellelli, who owns Tenuta Seliano, the agriturismo where the cooking vacation is based.
Even if you’re not taking class, Tenuta Seliano is a perfect spot to relax in rural surroundings, eat very well, and explore Campania. Just a short walk away are three of the best preserved Greek Temples in the world.
Twenty minutes north is Salerno,what Arthur calls, “one of the most charming towns on the Amalfi Coast.” Set at the coast’s southern border, Salerno is a perfect stop for a Golden Day, especially when you have advice from Arthur.
“Go to the Giardino della Minerva,” he began, when I spoke with him by phone a couple of days ago. This is the oldest botanical garden in Europe, created in the early 1300s, when there was a medical school here. You’ll find it above Salerno’s medieval historic center. To get there, you take a public elevator, found diagonally across from the centro storico’s parking lot. The garden is made up of 6 terraces, filled with about 260 plant species, including such rarities as the legendary mandrake and ginseng. On the top terrace, is a Tea Room, La Tiseneria. Here you get a panoramic view of the port and sea, while you sip teas made from the garden’s herbs.
Salerno’s centro storico is one of the best preserved in Italy—with narrow, arched alleys (vicoli) and broad vias lined with delightful shops. The major attraction is the 11th century Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Matthew—his bones are kept in a crypt under the main altar. And on the way up to it, on Via Duomo, are good antique shops.
I always love hearing Arthur’s restaurant advice. “There are lots of pizzerias to choose from,” he says. Always the teacher, he explains the difference between Neapolitan and Salernitani pizza: “Salerno’s crust has a smaller ring, it’s less puffy and the crust is crisper than what you’ll find in Naples.” A great place for Neapolitan pizza in Salerno is Antica Pizzeria Vicolo della Neve (Vicolo della Neve 24, 089 225705, closed Wed). Neve means “snow” and the vicolo got its name because in olden days the tunnel beneath the street was used to store ice, wrapped in straw, that was hauled down from the surrounding mountains by mules. In addition to pizza, you can order good oven-baked dishes here–such as stuffed peppers, salt cod and potatoes, meatballs, or pasta fagioli.
For great Salerno style pizza, if you’re feeling adventurous, Arthur’s advice is to head to O Paisano (Via Bottiglieri di Giovi 19, 84133 Salerno, 089 750861), in the hills on the outskirts of town, where you can also enjoy delicious fritti (fried antipasti).
Salerno’s best shopping is in the centro storico on Via dei Mercanti, where you’ll find unique stores selling jewelry, locally made leather goods, and hats. You also should stop for dolce at Pasticceria Pantaleone (Via dei Mercanti 77, closed Tues). 
It’s not a sit down place, but you can pick up goodies to go, such as baba or Scazzetta del Cardinale—Salerno’s signature cake filled with lemon cream, covered with strawberry-flavored icing. Mercanti eventually becomes Corso Vittorio Emanuele (the more modern part of town), where you’ll find traditional Italian chain stores, such as Benetton and La Feltrinelli.
“And join in on the passegiatta, that starts around 5:30, along Via dei Mercanti and the surroundings,” says Arthur. “On Saturday nights the streets fill up with the 20 to 30 year olds, spilling out from the bars…”
Grazie mille for taking us to yet another delicious, vibrant place, Arturo!
*For more info about Arthur Schwartz, Italy, and Cook at Seliano custom vacations, go to www.thefoodmaven.com.
GOLDEN DAY SIXTY-EIGHT: Sorrento with Mary Sherman Indelli
I always enjoy dinners with my friend Mary Sherman Indelli, where we trade stories of our Italian adventures. Mary has been in the travel biz for over 35 years. She was inspired by her passion for her favorite country to create ItalyItalyItaly, a company that offers customized tours in every region for groups or individuals. I envy Mary’s frequent research trips, where she hops around from countryside villas to boutique city hotels, checks out top wineries, cooking classes, and tour guides–and then comes home with loads of up-to-date contacts and experiences, so she can create itineraries that suit each client. “I always give travelers a selection to choose from and budget options, so they can decide where they want to save and where they want to splurge,” Mary tells me.
One of Mary’s favorite places is Sorrento, on the Amalfi Coast. As she puts it, “Sorrento is perfectly positioned so travelers can base themselves there, and without packing and unpacking, have a relaxing time taking day trips to Pompeii, Naples, the islands of Capri or Ischia, and the coastal villages of Positano and Ravello.
I’m grateful she’s joined in to share her Golden Day in this piece of Paradiso…
A wonderful place to stay in Sorrento is the Bellevue Syrene. It was built over a Roman villa, and was once a private home, so it has lots of history and an intimate feeling–65 rooms, and each one is different.
The hotel’s loggia, draped with wisteria, is extraordinary. The view of Mount Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples from there is one of the best in Italy–my husband and I couldn’t drink in enough of it–we never wanted to leave! After a breakfast there, relax on the hotel’s private sunbathing deck, take a morning swim, or indulge in a spa treatment.
Late morning we love to explore the little shops and caffes in the back alleys of Sorrento, or take a drive to the next town, Massa Lubrense, to walk on their pathways among the lemon and orange trees.
For lunch, head to Piazza Tasso, Sorrento’s main square. There you’ll find Pizzeria Aurora , or their sister restaurant, O’Canonico, next door, both of which are beloved by locals as well as tourists. They are family run–casual, authentic, and the pizzas made in the wood burning oven are fantastic. Some think their waiters have an attitude, but that is the Italian way. I always show my appreciation for their food and service and they treat me like a queen.
In the afternoon, go on a boating adventure with Captain Gianni Tedesco. Gianni, a native, is the perfect guide for a circle around the magical island of Capri. 
He’ll stop at hidden grottoes and bays for you to swim in, and take you to the major attractions–such as the Grotta Azzura=Blue Grotto. His boat is set up with music, drinks, and his mother’s homemade limoncello, that you can enjoy while lounging on the deck. Click here for more info.
Back in Sorrento, enjoy sunset cocktails at the Bellevue Syrene loggia.
Before or after dinner, join in on the passeggiata, which begins at Piazza Tasso and goes down Corso Italia. You can chat with the locals, stop for an espresso or a gelato and blend in with the life style of southern Italy.
If you’d like to splurge for a sophisticated dinner, make a reservation at the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria. 
The dining room is splendid, with frescoed vaulted ceilings. The food is all made with local products and fresh caught seafood. The hotel is built over another former Roman villa, and Enrico Caruso had a suite there. The property is surrounded by orange trees, and once you enter their gate at Piazza Tasso, you feel as if you have entered another world. Down the lane, you arrive at a very elegant and charming villa hotel overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and the Port of Sorrento.
An alternative for dinner, also a splurge, is Il Buco, (Rampa Marina Piccola 5, 06 0598 21212), where the food is out of this world, and you are treated like royalty.
If you’d like a more casual dinner, Ristorante Ruccio, (Piazza Marinai d’Italia 33, 081 807 4069), is the best for dining right on the water. This family owned spot will pamper you the minute you walk through the door.
Grazie for the inspiration, Mary!
GOLDEN DAY SIXTY-SEVEN: Poppea’s Villa
One stop before Pompeii on the Circumvesuviana train is Torre Annunziata, where you’ll discover Oplontis–an amazing villa where the Empress Poppea Sabina, (second wife of Nero) lived.
She was a high-maintenance woman, who insisted upon being carried about by mules shod with golden shoes, and needed to bathe daily in donkey milk, or as some say, the milk of 500 asses.
Romans would come to relax in her villa, that was considered the suburbs of busy Pompeii. Wandering about, through the salons, dining rooms, and interior gardens, you’ll get a feel of what life was like before the whole shebang got covered in lava in that famous 79 a.d. eruption…
Oplontis is much less tourist-filled than Pompeii. In the quiet, with the birds twittering in the oleander trees, let your imagination run free, fantasizing of ancient days…lavish banquets, wild pool parties, romantic trysts…with these frescoes in the background:
Back in Naples, hold on to the dramatic spirit with dinner at Da Dora (Via Ferdinando Palasciano 30, 081 680 519), where the house seafood pasta is divine, and the waitress who bursts into song is so soulful you may find yourself teary-eyed…
Click here for Oplontis Tourist info.
GOLDEN DAY SIXTY-SIX : Positano with Bell’Avventura
As the dark, cold days of winter approach. I am dreaming of sunny, warm days in the heavenly village of Positano on the Amalfi Coast. Which is why it’s wonderful to have Rosa Bella, creator of the gorgeous Bell’Avventura blog as our guest. Rosa has lived in Positano for 25 years, and fills her blog with her delightful experiences and photos of its hidden corners.
It’s not only dreamy to browse through, but also a great resource if you’re planning a trip there–as in check out her Dare to Be Different in Positano post, where she leads readers to such spots as The Best Place for a Romantic Kiss in Positano.
Here’s Rosa with her Golden Day:
If there is only one thing you do in Positano, it’s get up early in the morning, step out onto your balcony and stop and savour the serenity of the moment. You won’t believe your eyes. Positano is made for strolling, swimming and people watching and there is no better moment in the day to soak in it’s splendor, soft light and vibrant colours.
Start the day on the balconies of Hotel Villa delle Palme ( B&B style) or the elegant Hotel Pasitea ( open all year) which offer affordable accommodation with dramatic views or if you want to live it up, let Le Sirenuse pamper you in luxury.
Positano was built to see the sea and be seen from the sea. If you can get to the beach for 8:30, the calm crystalline waters invite a lagoon like plunge before the 10am crowds arrive. Grab a canoe from Pupetto beach bar hire and paddle to stop far from the shores and watch the morning light move across the town as it breaks across the top of the mountain.
Sergio Bella’s Da Adolfo beach restaurant should be your next stop for a casual lunch and swim at Laurito beach with the free ferry trip from the main dock edging along the coastline under the magnificent villas.
Pick and reserve a table as soon as you get there. This hidden gem of Positano is more popular than you’d believe, its reputation based solely on the fresh food and the family traditions. Start with grilled mozzarella on lemon leaves for antipasto, and follow it with a pumpkin and mussel pasta. Wash it down with a jug of vino and peaches. Then take your pick of the best grilled or marinated fish in Positano enjoying views that stretch to Capri. It’s a must!
Catching the first boat back at 4pm, grab a gelato at the Bucca di Bacco and stroll up to the Mulini through the via Saracino stopping at the clothes boutiques in the alley ways.
Find Giovanni’s’s typical handmade sandals made to measure in ten minutes at La Botteguccia di Positano or treat yourself to comfortable Capri style leather loafers in a Crayola range of colours at Tre Danari at the bottom of the church steps. If you are looking for genuine Positano hand made soaps which capture the perfumes wafting from Amalfi Coast gardens, look no further than Saponissimo.
The majolica domed Church of La Madonna del Rosario at the top of the stairs offers an ornate gilded interior with the ruins of a Roman Villa in the back entrance. Coming up from the Church, I like peeking into the lush gardens of Hotel Palazzo Murat under the purple bougainvillea pergola before heading further up the road past the Mulini bus stop to admire the colourful ceramic shops on the corner in front of Garage Mandara.
An evening meal at the family run Il Saraceno d’Oro will top the day with the best pizza in Fornillo or a delicious plate of scialatielli allo scoglio.
In this lively restaurant, appreciated by the locals for their takeaway pizzas, Daniele breaks spontaneously into song and Marilu` welcomes guests as if it were into the heart of her family. I always finish off with my favourite dessert la delizie di limone.
A moonlit walk down to the main beach for a late drink (of course you’ve planned the trip to include a full moon)and people watching at La Brezza café caps off the night.
Book Alberico from Rainbow Limos car service to be there the next day to whisk you off to your next destination. That is, if you can bear to leave!
Grazie mille Rosa, for the inspiring post! We’re packing our bags…
Grazie Mille to all of you who commented with your Golden Tastes of Italy!
What a Joy it is to read about all these delicious tastes!
There was a Random Drawing, and here are the results:
Louise Fiore = 100 Places in Italy Every Woman Should Go, by Susan Van Allen
Greg Robson= Flavors of Rome, by Carol Coviello Malzone
Mariann Vandenberg = Secrets of My Tuscan Kitchen, by Judy Witts-Francini
Karen (who commented about Cucina Povera Recipes) = Simple and Genuine, Mamma Agata’s Cookbook, by Chiara Lima
Nancy Caronia = Cucina Povera, by Pamela Sheldon Johns
Sally Watkins = Dream of Italy subscription from editor and publisher Kathy McCabe and 2 DVDs
Please e-mail 100placesinitaly@gmail.com with your addresses
I wish you all many more Golden Tastes of Italy
AND Buone Feste!
GOLDEN TASTES OF ITALY: HOLIDAY BOOK GIVEAWAY!
To Celebrate the Holidays:
GOLDEN TASTES OF ITALY BOOK GIVEAWAY!
FIVE BOOKS ABOUT ITALY AND
AN ONLINE SUBSCRIPTION TO THE DREAM OF ITALY NEWSLETTER WITH TWO BONUS DVDS
Will be given away to commenters selected in a RANDOM DRAWING
It’s NOT a CONTEST, anyone who comments can win!
TO PLAY: Complete This Sentence In The Comment Section Below:
One Golden Taste of Italy for me was ________________________
Write the first thing that comes to your mind, for example…
That cannoli stuffed with the freshest ricotta I savored in Sicily
OR
The taralli (flavored with anise) I made for Thanksgiving apertivo, that always reminds me of my nana
************************
One of These Can Be Yours…
100 Places In Italy Every Woman Should Go, by Susan Van Allen
Dream of Italy, Online Newsletter Subscription for 2012, with two Bonus Travel DVDs,
edited by Kathy McCabe, (Golden Day 31: Umbria)
a cookbook by Pamela Sheldon Johns, award-winning author and leader of cooking classes in Italy
by Chiara Lima, from The Mamma Agata Amalfi Coast Cooking School, (Golden Day 62, Ravello)
They all make lovely gifts
DEADLINE: MIDNIGHT, SATURDAY, DECEMBER 3
Winner Announcements: SUNDAY, DECEMBER 4
You may win a book to give to an Italophile in your life
Or it may be your first present of the season!
Golden Day Sixty-Five: Amalfi with Laura Thayer
Laura Thayer has created an enchanting blog, Ciao Amalfi, A Writing Life on Italy’s Amalfi Coast. With her gorgeous photos and writings, she shares the nuances of the tastes, architecture, and nature of this bellissima spot, where she’s lived since 2008. I’ve loved following her to discover such wonders as hidden beaches and Old Man Of The Mountain in Maiori…Check out his sleeping head’s profile cutting into the sky…
I’m so grateful she’s joined us during her busy time (planning her January wedding in Amalfi!), to share her Golden Day in her beloved home:
If there’s one place in Italy where I can enjoy a golden day time and time again, it’s the small town of Amalfi, the namesake village of southern Italy’s Amalfi Coast. With its stunning natural setting, colorful architecture and beautiful beaches, it’s easy to fall in love with the Amalfi Coast, and it fills my heart with joy and a deep feeling of gratefulness to call this beautiful coastline in Italy home. While I love each little town and village, I lost my heart in Amalfi, somewhere amid the winding medieval staircases and the terraces of lemon groves. Come along as I share with you some of my favorite things to do on a Golden Day in Amalfi!
Start your day in the heart of Amalfi in the Piazza Duomo, where you’ll find many choices for outdoor cafes to sit and watch the morning hustle and bustle – small delivery trucks bumping along the cobblestones, locals out doing the daily shopping and kids hurrying to school. This morning routine takes place before the backdrop of one of Italy’s most colorful and striking churches, the Cathedral of Sant’ Andrea (St. Andrew).
Climb the grand staircase to visit the Cathedral, also called the Duomo, where for only a few Euros you can visit the 13th-century Cloister of Paradise, with beautiful views of the Duomo’s bell tower, the Cathedral Museum, the crypt of Sant’ Andrea and the beautiful nave of the church. If you’re visiting at the end of June or late November, plan on staying for the Festival of Sant’ Andrea, one of the largest religious celebrations on the Amalfi Coast. It’s a wonderful opportunity to experience the deep traditions in honor of Amalfi’s patron saint.
Follow Amalfi’s main street lined with shops, restaurants and cafes that leads from the Piazza Duomo all the way to the top of the town. Near the top you’ll spot the entrance to the Museo della Carta, the Paper Museum, where you can take a short tour to discover the history of papermaking in Amalfi. On your way back down toward the center of town, head off the main street and explore the medieval passageways. Just be prepared for steps!
Now it might be time for a little something sweet, and one of my favorites is the artisan gelato made at the Café Royal just steps from the Piazza Duomo. Try their unique homemade flavors like Passione degli Dei (Passion of the Gods), a delightful combination of lemon, strawberry and a touch of champagne. Best spot for enjoying your gelato? Climb up the steps of the Duomo and claim your own spot to enjoy the view.
Lunch overlooking the harbor of Amalfi from the terrace of the Ristorante Marina Grande is a real treat, and worth the little extra splurge. The regional specialties of the Amalfi Coast are handled with such delicacy and creativity, and the setting is lovely for lunch or dinner.
After lunch, enjoy a leisurely passeggiata in Amalfi along the harbor to the end of the port. This is the traditional walk in town, and you’ll spot many locals out in the afternoon and evening enjoying the views and catching up on the day’s news with family and friends.
As the sunlight begins to fade behind the mountains, head toward the Bar Gran Caffè overlooking Amalfi’s Marina Grande beach. Find a spot at one of the outdoor tables and enjoy an aperitivo as the sunlight turns to pink and purples over the harbor of Amalfi. It’s the perfect spot to end a Golden Day in Amalfi, with the sounds of the waves washing the pebbles back and forth on the beach and the beauty of Amalfi all around.
Grazie for this dreamy day Laura!
Golden Day Sixty-Four: Chiaia, Napoli with Bonnie Alberts
The website Napoli Unplugged: Visit Naples, Discover Napoli and Napoli Unblugged Blog are Must Clicks if you’re headed to Naples or dreaming of Napoli. They’re created by Bonnie Alberts and her gang of contributors. Bonnie is a freelance writer and photographer with a degree in Historic Preservation, who is passionate about her adopted home. She generously shares her take on the sights, sounds, and flavors of this beautiful city–from up to the minute schedules of events, to fabulous recipes, touring and restaurant recommendations, entertaining stories, and always beautiful photography. 
Shc even has a Napoli Unplugged Photo Blog, where you browse by subject and get drawn into such places as Napoli’s pizzerias…
I’m so grateful she’s joined in to share her Golden Day in Chiaia. Here’s Bonnie:
Ancient and modern, shabby and chic, chaotic and… well chaotic, Naples Chiaia district has a vibe unlike anywhere else in the city. Tailor made for strolling, shopping, sipping and sampling, call me biased, but I absolutely love this neighborhood. I wouldn’t live here if I didn’t.
I love how Chiaia has reinvented itself and continues to reinvent itself. The tiny “bassi” of the past transformed into upscale shops and wine bars. Contemporary art museums and galleries tucked into ancient palazzi. A modern city wrapped up in ancient accommodations, it reminds me of all that is good and all that is possible.
Along Via dei Mille, gorgeous 19th and 20th century palazzi play host to street level store fronts with names like Fendi, Bulgari and Hermes. Nestled in between, local shops and restaurants keep Naples traditions alive. Tarallificio Leopoldo (Via Vittoria Colonna, 46) is home to some of the best taralli, pastries and fresh pasta in the city. And at Pizzeria Mattozzi Cucina Tipica (Via Filangieri Gaetano, 16) you’ll find mouth-watering Neapolitan pizza and pasta dishes.
If you’re a contemporary art fan, check out PAN Palazzo delle Arti in the beautiful 17th century Palazzo Rocella (Via dei Mille, 60) or ISI Arti Associate (Vico del Vasto a Chiaia, 47). Ask for Marina Romano who is one of the founders of ISI. She’ll pour you a glass of wine and give you a personal tour of the gallery in English of course.
The top of Via dei Mille in the area around Piazza Amedeo bustles by day, is quiet by night and is a great place to stay. The Hotel Pinto-Storey boasts an excellent location and the reviews to match. While you’re there don’t forget to take a quick look up at Lamont Young’s early 19th century Castello Aselmeyer on the stunning Corso Vittorio Emanuale.
At the other end of Via dei Mille look for the “V” in the road and the Gran Caffè Cimmino. High above it is another great place to stay, Casamone B&B (Via Gaetano Filangieri, 11). Not only does it have fabulous views of Chiaia from its two roof top terraces, but Giorgio and Celina are fabulous hosts. They speak five languages fluently and a photographer by trade, Giorgio will be happy to arrange a Naples photo tour or workshop for you.
Duck into Chiaia’s quaint cobblestoned alleys to find smaller stores and smaller price tags. Stroll along Via della Cavallerizza a Chiaia, Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, and Via Albardiere and don’t forget to check out the even smaller alleys in between.
Filled with shoppers by day, come back at night to experience the Naples Wine Bar scene. Young professionals and University students pour into the streets, meeting and greeting until the wee hours of the morning. My favorites, Enoteca Belledonne (Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 18) where you’ll find Ciro chatting customers up in French, English and Italian. Across the alley check out Bros (Vicoletto Belledonne a Chiaia), where the wine flows, the snacks are plentiful and the owners will make you feel at home.
For lunch on the go try Lo Focaccia di Caccavallo Vincenzo (Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 31). If you’d like to take things more leisurely, lunch at Umberto Ristorante (Via Albardieri, 30/31) or any one of the seafront restaurants along Via Partenope. A long stroll after lunch along lungomare, Napoli’s seaside promenade will help clear the wine from your head and treat you to breathtaking views of Vesuvius, Castel dell’Ovo, Sorrento and Capri.
Then head back to Piazza dei Martiri where you’ll find more upscale stores like Louis Vuitton and Salvatore Ferragamo and the “La Feltrinelli” Book Store. With a vibe like Barnes & Noble, it is one of my favorite places to while away an afternoon. End the day sipping a well deserved glass of Prosecco at Gran Caffè La Caffettiera (Piazza dei Martiri, 30).
GRAZIE for the inspiration Bonnie!
Golden Day Sixty-Three: The Spanish Quarter of Naples
One of my favorite neighborhoods on earth is the Spanish Quarter in Naples. Narrow alleys decorated with laundry, signoras on balconies in housecoats, vespas roaring by, the smells of rich ragu…There’s an intimacy here in this working class neighborhood where so much action–love affairs, arguments, jokes, happen right out in the open, right before my eyes. 
I walk past altars put up for someone’s mamma, street level doors open to family kitchens, and my eyes meet a signorina as she stirs at the stove. Often tables from those kitchens are simply moved out to the street–so what I thought at first must be a great family restaurant, is actually simply a great family dining al fresco outside their front door, giving me a smile as I pass by.
I love starting the day at Pignasecca Market–buckets full of glistening fish, baskets overflowing with friarielli, those tasty bitter greens, and big, full operatic voices all around. Panificio Vincenzo Coppola (Via Pignasecca 35) is a favorite stop for taralle, studded with almonds.
Then to slip into the Santa Maria della Concezione a Montecalvario and light a candle…ah, the drama!
Lunch at Trattoria Nennella (Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo 103, closed Sun). I’ve never seen a menu here. 
Nennella’s son bellows out what mamma’s cooking–from lasagna to gnocchi alla sorrentina. It’s homey and delicious and there’s always going to be a laugh watching this family in action.
Nearby–the next street over–is a place where I’ve had one of the best lasagnas in my life: Osteria Rosa dei Venti (Vico Lungo del Gelso 110).
A few years ago I discovered Maria Mari B&B, with its sweetly decorated rooms 
and wonderful owners who welcome me back like family…
And friends have raved about Hotel Il Convento, a 3-star that’s smack in the midst of this divine neighborhood.
Grazie to John Tuturro for his great documentary that celebrates the music of Naples, Passione. So much of it is shot in the Spanish Quarter. I’ve been re-watching it on YouTube lately, loving the faces that look so familiar, the glimpse of the doorway of an apartment I once rented on the Via Concezione a Montecalvario. It all makes me hungry.
Golden Day Sixty-Two: Ravello, Mamma Agata’s Cooking Class and The Gardens of Villa Cimbrone
A drive south from Naples takes us to the gorgeous Amalfi Coast, and then we wind up above it to reach Ravello–one of the most enchanting towns in Italy. It’s fitting that in such a spot there resides a Goddess of Amalfi Coast Cooking: Mamma Agata. She began her pro-career when she was thirteen, cooking in the villa of a wealthy American who entertained star visitors. Mamma Agata was beloved by such guests as Humphrey Bogart, Anita Ekberg, Fred Astaire, and Jackie-O.
These days this open hearted, exhuberant woman offers a Golden Day: Cooking class in her hilltop villa, which has a to-die-for view of the hills and sea. Chiara Lima, Mamma Agata’s daughter is the gracious mastermind behind the cooking school. When I was there a couple of years ago, she welcomed us with caffe and lemon cake, which was a favorite of Bogey’s.
The class is mostly demonstration, in the cozy kitchen where Chiara narrates, as Mamma cooks, and we get tastes of fresh tomato sauce, sniffs of just picked basil. Practically everything she makes uses what’s grown right here in her terraced gardens. There’s rolled eggplant appetizers, eggplant parmigiana, pappardelle with sausage and peppers, and lemon chicken.
Then we took our places at a long wooden table on the terrace while lovely signorine magically appeared with platters and pans of everything we’d watched Mamma Agata create. More than one of us sighed, “This is the best lunch I’ve ever had!” For the grand finale, Mamma appeared to pour glasses of her homemade limoncello. A heavenly day…
Late afternoon was the perfect time for a stroll through the gardens of Villa Cimbrone, a bewitching mix of manicured lawns, cypress tree-lined paths, arbors dripping with wisteria, a rose garden, sculptures and colorful flower beds. A shaded path leads to the Belvedere of Infinity that will take your breath away with its stunning view.
You can actually stay in the Villa Cimbrone, or you may want to check into the Villa Scarpariello–an amazing mix of old buildings and a tower from the 12th century, that’s set in a seaside nitch, and offers reasonably priced rooms and apartments with balconies.
To enjoy Mamma Agata’s deliciousness at home, you can order her beautifully illustrated cookbook and her pasta which has just been made available to mail order!
