Elizabeth Condelli has a boundless passion for Italy, that has inspired her to create the wonderful website, Escape-Artists. Here she shares her knowledge of Italy’s cooking, culture, and traditions and offers travel consultations–whether you need assistance with luxury stays in the major cities or advice for off-the-beaten-track destinations. I love clicking through the dreamy videos of every region.
When I saw Elizabeth last fall, just after she returned from Cremona, she was bursting with enthusiasm about her time there. I’m so grateful she’s joined in to share her take about this treasure:
Five Reasons to Visit Cremona
One might overlook the charming medieval town of Cremona, located in Lombardy’s Cremona province, which lies on the left bank of the Po River. There are more than five reasons to visit Cremona, but let’s start with mine.
#1. Piazza del Comune is a typical medieval square with a view of the most important buildings of the city: the Duomo, Baptistery, famous Torrazzo (bell tower) and City Hall.
Just steps from the piazza is the Hotel Impero Cremona , an ideal place to stay for exploring the town.
#2. The Cathedral, called the “Sistine Chapel of the Po Valley” because of its beautiful sixteenth century Mannerist depictions of the life of Mary and Jesus. From the early Renaissance work of Boccaccino Boccaccio, Bembo, Melon, Romanino, and the overwhelming expressive power in Pordenone’s Crucifixion, the nave reveals some of the greatest masterpieces of the Lombard Renaissance.
#3. Cremona’s bell tower called ‘Torrazzo’ is Europe’s oldest surviving tower, standing over 344 feet tall, and it is also the tallest brick bell tower in Europe. The torrazzo is the emblem of the city. Enjoy one of my favorite pastimes, people watching in the piazza while having an aperitivo at Caffè Torrazzo.
#4 Home of Stradivari. Cremona also owes its fame to Antonio Stradivari, the most significant artisan in the field of string instruments. A visit to this city is a dream come true for lovers of the violin. There is music everywhere, people young and old alike, bustling with their instruments in hand, on their way to a class or performance. Plan a visit to Cremona for the opening of the New Violin Museum designed by architect Giorgio Palù, scheduled in September 2012.
#5 Nougat Candy. Cremona is the city where the Italian candy torrone originated. It was on October 25, 1441, at the wedding of Bianca Maria Visconti and Francesco Sforza that Bianca’s father had the court’s pastry chef create a new confection to commemorate this grand event. His chef mixed some almonds, honey and beaten egg whites, cooked the mixture for hours then wrapped it with the unconsecrated host and shaped it to look like the emblem of the city, the bell (Torrione). Today Torrone is available to everyone, and many new versions have been developed. One of my favorites is the torrone made with hazelnuts, pistachios and chocolate which, I must have every year at Christmas.
So Much More…
There is much more to do and see in Cremona. If you are lucky enough to be in the town on Sunday, you might want to spend some time browsing the antique market which takes up the entire Piazza del Comune.
There are festivals every month in Cremona, including the Bonfire of San Giuseppe in March, and in May the Fish Festival, and the Apparition Fair–Click here for a calendar. The one not to miss is the November 16-18 2012 Torrone Festival, complete with all the music you could ever dream of hearing.
Grazie for the inspiration, Elizabeth!
Golden Day Seventy-Four: Lago Iseo with Denise Soto Ferreira
I was drawn like a magnet to the Patience blog (who doesn’t need Patience!) and am grateful to have virtually met its charming creator, Denise Soto Ferreira. Denise is a native of Portugal, who married an Italian and now lives in Milan. Her blog beautifully reflects her passion for life in Italy–with gorgeous photos, enticing recipes, musings and helpful info.
When I asked Denise to choose one of her favorite spots for a Golden Day, Iseo Lake was her answer. Most travelers head to Lake Como when they’re in Lombardy, so I’m grateful for Denise’s excellent insider’s advice on this under-the-tourist-radar paradise:
Located in the Franciacorta territory, Iseo is a picturesque lakeside town that goes back to medieval times.
There is almost a seaside feel to this place with pine trees welcoming you to the lake.
From May to September this relaxing atmosphere springs to life with regattas, concerts and dances while several sports like swimming, windsurfing, fishing, diving and sailing can be practiced.
Visit the Parish Church of St. Andrew which was founded during the 5th century. Apart from its beautiful frescoed ceiling and altar, it is also home to important paintings by Giuseppe Diotti and Francesco Hayez.
Then making your way through the small streets of this quaint town you’ll pass by the Oldolfredi Castle (which is now home of the public library and used for expos and conferences) and through Piazza Garibaldi taking you to the lakeside promenade. The promenade is filled with Cafés and Gelateria’s for your pleasure.
For lunch I recommend eating at the Risotteria Opera Iseo (Via Campo, 32, 030 981507, open daily).The staff is accommodating and friendly and I recommend tasting their delicious“Risotto al Brut Franciacorta”, but if you fancy something lighter they also serve a good piadine (flat bread). During the week days they serve a great special of Risotto, water and a coffee for €8.
For something more elaborate you can try Osteria La Cantina (Viale Repubblica, 6/a Tel: 030 9822041, Closed all day Thurs and Fri lunch).
After lunch, I suggest going to Monte Isola, this is an inhabited island in the middle of the lake. You can reach the ferry to the island with a 10 minute drive or train ride to Sulzano and from there take the ferry across, as the town of Iseo doesn’t have this frequent service. The ferry is available every 15-20 minutes and a return ticket only costs €3,50.
Monte Isola was known for the traditional manufacturing of fishing nets until the industrial manufactures took over. At Peschiera Maraglio you can see what remains of that traditional craftsmanship.
The island has an amazing view of the main land and it is scattered with cypress and olive trees. Clean, fresh air and panoramic views with the subtle sounds of water brushing along its coast, you can’t get more relaxing than that. If you look around you might notice a local characteristic of pieces of fish hanging on balconies, the fresh water fish “Cavedano” is caught in the lake then cleaned, cut and placed in salt for 24 hours. From there it’s hung up in the sun for 2 days and then bottled in local olive oil.
On this island you can visit the Madonna della Ceriola sanctuary, which is at the top of the island and the crisply frescoed church of Saint Michael ”S.Michele” dating back to XVI – XVII century.
And why not end your day out in these alluring parts by staying in modern and divine lake side Hotel Rivalago, at Sulazano, not too far from the ferry stop.
So take a mesmeric day out unwinding in this charming part of the Lombardy region.
Grazie mille Denise!
*Photos courtesy of Denise and www.lagodiseo.org
Golden Day Seventy-Three: Marvelous Mantua, aka Mantova
The small town of Mantua is a gem of the Lombardy region–surrounded by lakes, with stunning Renaissance architecture from the days when the great Gonzaga family reigned here. Of its many palaces, most spectacular is Palazzo Ducale–a sprawling complex of courtyards and about 500 magnificent rooms.
Have a Golden Day wandering around…
The Hall of Tapestries…
Zodiac Room…
Camera degli Sposi (Bride’s Room) with beautiful Andrea Mantegna frescoes…
It’s completely overwhelming.
Which may be why what I find most enchanting in the Palazzo is tucked away on the ground floor: the tiny grotta and studiolo of Isabella d’Este==First Lady of the Renaissance. Isabella moved into the Palazzo in 1490, when she was 16, a Gonzaga bride. While her husband was away at war, she expertly took over ruling Mantua, and made the palazzo into a cultural center–a gathering place for artists, poets, and musicians.
Studiolos like Isabella’s were all the rage in Renaissance days. The idea was to move beyond the sterile, monastic retreats of the Dark Ages and into a space inspired by the Ancient Greeks and Romans, where the appreciation of beauty was the path to transcendence.
This was where she’d come to leave the world behind–play her lute, read poetry, and invite friends over to admire her beautiful collection af art, gems, and ancient artifacts.
After her husband died, she moved out of the grand upstairs palace rooms, and lived out her days in this charming spot.
A fantastic place for dinner nearby is the Ristorante Aquila Nigra, (Vicolo Bonacolsi 4, 037 632 7180)–a converted palazzo, which serves up elegant renditions of Mantova classics, including tortelli di zucca (pasta stuffed with pumpkin.
Or if you’d like something less expensive, cozy, and delicious, go to Osteria da Bice la Gallina Felice (Via Carbonati 4/6, 0376 288368).
Spend a night or two at Casa Poli, a sleek boutique hotel, about a ten minute walk from the Palazzo.
And don’t leave town without tasting Mantova’s signature sweet–Sbrisolona–a giant cookie/cake, flavored with almonds. You’ll find these in bakeries all over town, including the wonderful Panificio Pasticceria Pavesi (Via Broletto 9–Mon 7-1:30, Tues-Sat 7-7:30), that’s steps away from Palazzo Ducale. They stay fresh for a while, so make great souvenirs–if you can resist gobbling them up right away, that is.
Note that the Palazzo Ducale is closed on Monday–for more info, click Here
It has been great fun to connect with Barbara Conelli, a writer who divides her time between New York and Milan. As she puts it, her mission is to “bring Fantastic Fearless Feminine Fun into women’s lives.” 
Barbara shares her passion for Milan in her book, Chique Secrets of Dolce Vita and is following that up with Chique Secrets of Dolce Amore. You can also listen to her delightful Radio Show AND Barbara’s Blog is a must click if you’re planning a visit to Milan–full of insider’s advice about everything from trattorias, to spas, gardens, and bookstores.
I’m so grateful to have this expert join in to give advice for A Golden Day…
All around the world, Milan is seen as the metropolis of haute-couture and the venue of one of the most popular Fashion Weeks. Therefore, the visit of Quadrilatero della Moda, or Quadrilatero d’Oro – Fashion or Golden Quadrangle – is a Milanese must. Maybe just for the luxurious and truly golden atmosphere strangely divorced from the everyday reality.
Quadrilatero d’Oro includes four streets: Montenapoleone, Spiga, Sant’Andrea and Manzoni: Wide boulevards lined with neoclassical palaces. During the day, the streets are full of famous and not-so-famous models, their rich lovers and foreigners from far away.
The best thing you can do is visit the Golden Quadrangle during Milanese spring or fall sales. International fashion brands sell their creations with a huge discount and it’s the best time to acquire something juicy for your wardrobe and feel like a famous star for one day. 
I’m sure you will treat yourself to the visit of French fashion houses such as Dior, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Hermès or Louis Vuitton, but don’t forget the Italian ones – after all, you’re in Milan.
Apart from notorious brands – Dolce & Gabbana, Roberto Cavalli, Moschino, Missoni or Trussardi – there are also brands a little less known abroad but very popular in Italy. Your shopping day in the Golden Quadrangle is a great opportunity to discover, explore and admire them.
One of such stores is Roccobarocco in Via della Spiga. Don’t worry, it has nothing to do with Baroque, although the name implies it. The founder of this brand is Rocco Barocco, a very successful and popular Italian fashion designer and creator of both haute-couture and prêt-à-porter. You will fall in love with Rocco’s clothes and handbags if you’re not afraid of bright colors and extravagant cuts. Rocco revels in striking colors of Italy and in silhouettes that accentuate long legs, wide shoulders and slim arms. Roccobarocco celebrates Italian femininity in all its glory and highlights everything that’s typical for Italian women: Charm, elegance, sense of humor, lightness and self-confidence.
Of course, the uncrowned king of the Golden Quadrangle is the house of Armani that today offers not only clothes but also cosmetics and make-up, watches, jewelry and even luxurious hotels. Megastore Armani in Via Manzoni 31 is a three-floor giant and paradise for Armani lovers from all around the world. You can try on whatever you like and chat with obliging stylists who are ready to create a unique Armani style just for you. 
And if you haven’t had enough of Armani yet, have lunch in the nearby Emporio Armani Caffé in Via Crocerossa 2. It’s distinguished not only by the Armani design, but also by delicious meals prepared only from organic fruits and vegetables, fresh seafood and high-quality meat.
Click here to watch the Emporio Armani Caffé Opening Night Video!
After lunch you will probably realize that your feet are starting to hurt and the shopping bags in your hands are too heavy. Relax and have a cup of excellent coffee and a fluffy dessert in Via Montenapoleone 8, in Cova, the oldest Milanese café and patisserie.
When you swallow the last piece of the cake and the last sip of your cappuccino, let your exhausted body enjoy a few hours of pampering and intoxicating pleasure at a local spa. They will spoil you rotten so much you will not want to go back to the real world.
L’Espa Gianfranco Ferré in Via Sant’Andrea with black and gold mosaics and a gorgeous private garden is scented with aromatic oils and as soon as you enter, its chromotherapeutic lights soothe you and pleasantly slow you down. The space of L’Espa Gianfranco Ferré is inspired by ancient baths and returns to the age-long Italian tradition of caring for both your body and spirit.
Bulgari Spa is located in the private alley of Via Fratelli Gabba. Its oriental emerald-green hammam lit by candles and the pool made of golden mosaic will carry you to the world of A Thousand and One Nights. You can turn into a harem sweetheart and indulge in extraordinary pampering, a dream come true for every woman.
The Milanese Golden Quadrangle is a magically beautiful quarter worth visiting and admiring. It’s a perfect opportunity to have a day just for yourself and feel like a chique Italian princess for as long as you wish. La dolce vita at its best.
Grazie Barbara, for showing us The Way!
Golden Day Seventy-One: Visit The Last Supper in Milan
If you are anywhere near Milan, make plans to visit Leonardo Da Vinci’s masterpiece, The Last Supper. Sure, you’ve seen copies all over the place, but when you actually stand in the room with it, you’ll be astounded by how this Renaissance genius captured such a deep range of emotions in one of the Bible’s most dramatic moments: Immediately after Jesus makes the “One of you will betray me…” announcement.
Also astounding is the fact that this mural has even survived. Always the experimenter, Da Vinci decided to try oil painting on dry wall, rather than follow the fresco style that everyone else was doing in the Renaissance. The result was disastorous–paint started peeling just 60 years after he completed it. Over the centuries, dampness further damaged the painting, slipshod restoration work was done, a doorway was built through the bottom middle of it, and a World War II bomb nearly destroyed it. Finally, in the late 1970s, a serious, scientific restoration project began that took 21 years. Now you’ll stand in what was once the dining hall of lucky Dominican monks, to admire what comes closest to Da Vinci’s original vision.
Be sure to also check out the adjoining Santa Maria delle Grazie church and cloister designed by the master Bramante, the architect of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.
ATTENZIONE! Reservations are required to visit The Last Supper and you must get your reserved ticket in advance–at least a couple of weeks is preferred to get your desired time, since travelers from all over the world want to see this. I’ve found the best way to get tickets is through the Select Italy website. AND coincidentally, I just found out Select Italy is offering FREE LAST SUPPER TICKETS to Women on Thursday, March 8, in honor of International Women’s Day. Grazie!
Andrea Sertoli, a Rome native, created Select Italy in 1997–it’s a great blend of technology and custom travel planners which consistently gets raves from clients and is a Travel + Leisure A-Lister. Sertoli has personal connections with experts up and down the boot, so you can hop on to the website for detailed info for travels all over Italy, connect with the company’s agents for trip arrangements–from hotel, villa, and apartment rentals, guided tours, cooking classes, winery visits, yacht charters, to wedding and honeymoon planning. 
I’ve appreciated their services over the years for museum tickets and also loved a guided tour of the shopping scene in Milan, from their fashionable expert, Alessandra. And they have a fab, entertaining blog with up-to-the-minute Italy info.
Where to eat after you see The Last Supper? Andrea directed me to the company’s huge T4T database, with excellent insider’s travel advice, which you can find on the Select Italy Facebook Page. As far as restaurants in the area, here are two delicious options:
For upscale and elegant, there’s Ristorante Orti di Leonardo (Via Arstide De Togni 6/8, 02 498 3197, Closed Sat lunch and Mon). It’s named for the vineyards and vegetable gardens that Ludovico Il Moro gave as a gift to Leonardo da Vinci while he was painting The Last Supper. Formerly a 17th century convent, its vaulted ceilings shelter beautiful dining rooms, decorated with a contemporary flair. 
Come here to feast on the creative Italian cuisine of Chef Luca Cubetti. A particularly good value is the 4-course Menu del Mercato, priced at 36,00 euro; it changes weekly, depending on what’s in season.
For something more casual, there is the Trattoria Meneghina, (Corso Magenta 78, 02 581 09204, closed Mon), a family-run restaurant that serves delicious but unpretentious Milanese home cooking in a narrow, dark-wood-paneled dining room. The cotoletta alla milanese is served bone-in, as tradition requires, and it’s so tender that it melts in your mouth. Stuffed peppers, artichoke salad, risotto, hearty soups and an excellent cassoeula round out the menu of the day that is posted on a blackboard, or recited by your waiter (but son Camillo speaks English). Friendly service and a good wine list complement the home-cooked food.
It’s easy to reach The Last Supper by Milan Metro: Take the Green or Red Line to Cadorna, and then it’s a 5-10 minute walk.
Grazie Andrea, for a hassle-free, delicious Last Supper experience!
And remember, if you or any of your girlfriends are around Milan on March 8, get your FREE Last Supper tickets through the Select Italy website!
Golden Day Seventy: Arrive in Milan
Landing in the Fashion Capital of the World is a luxurious rush. If you’re like most travelers, (including me), a first visit starts at Milan’s gasp-inspiring Duomo–a white marble Gothic wonder–the second largest church in the world. It’s worth it to take the elevator or steps to the rooftop where you’re surrounded by spires and statues.
Down below in the magnificent Piazza Duomo, you’ll easily distinguish the tourists from the stylish Milanese–signoras gliding by you in furs, signors in impeccably tailored suits.
The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele (the world’s oldest mall) will inevitably draw you in, and you can have a peek inside the first Prada store (founded in 1913).
For a caffe, head to nearby Cafe Trussardi (Piazza della Scala 5), which will take you past yet another world reknowned spot: Teatro alla Scala. If you have your heart set on seeing an opera, concert or ballet there, reserve well in advance, or you can try your luck getting Gallery Tickets–140 are available on the days of performances.
Another favorite place nearby for a snack is Luini (Via Santa Radegonda 16–steps away from the Galleria), where the counter is always crowded with locals getting their panzerotti–a delicious Pugliese fried turnover, stuffed with your choice of scrumptious fillings.
Just a few blocks away is the Quadrilatero della Moda (aka Golden Quadrangle)–the high fashion heart of Milan. Window shopping here–along the cobblestoned streets, centering around Via Montenapoleone, is divine–surrounded by such designer shops as Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, and Valentino. If you’re up for a fancy lunch, go for sushi at the Armani’s Nobu (Via Pisoni 1, 02 6231 2645). Or if you’re looking for something more casual, head to Latteria di San Marco (Via San Marco 24, Brera) for Milanese classics (such as risotto)–get there early, as there are only 8 tables and it fills up!
There are loads of great places for sunset apertivo. A fave of mine is the Obika mozzarella bar, on the top floor or Rinascente department store (Via S Radegonda 1, Piazza Duomo), where you can sit on the terrace sipping prosecco and be eye to eye with the roof of the Duomo…
For a sensational dinner, make reservations at the Michelin-starred Ristorante Cracco (Via Victor Hugo 4, 02 876 714, closed Sunday)–Chef Cracco (in the photo) is a superstar of culinary invention and the restaurant is part of Milan’s marvelous Peck Food emporium. Alternatively, you may want to stock up on goodies at Peck and have a delicious picnic back in your hotel room.
I’ve loved staying at Antica Locanda dei Mercanti, a gorgeously designed cozy hotel (rooms with terraces), located a 5 minute walk away from the Duomo, in the Brera district.
AND check out the Malpensa Express, for a convenient, low cost (7 to 11 euros) ride to and from the airport…
More Golden Days in Milan to come…
Golden Day Sixty-Nine: Delicious Salerno with Arthur Schwartz
One of the most wonderfully delicious times I’ve had in Italy was when my husband and I joined Arthur Schwartz’s Cook at Seliano group in Paestum.
Arthur is a passionate expert when it comes to Italian cuisine—check out two of his many inspiring cookbooks:
Naples at Table and The Southern Italian Table. It’s great fun to be around him and his co-host, Baronessa Cecilia Bellelli, who owns Tenuta Seliano, the agriturismo where the cooking vacation is based.
Even if you’re not taking class, Tenuta Seliano is a perfect spot to relax in rural surroundings, eat very well, and explore Campania. Just a short walk away are three of the best preserved Greek Temples in the world.
Twenty minutes north is Salerno,what Arthur calls, “one of the most charming towns on the Amalfi Coast.” Set at the coast’s southern border, Salerno is a perfect stop for a Golden Day, especially when you have advice from Arthur.
“Go to the Giardino della Minerva,” he began, when I spoke with him by phone a couple of days ago. This is the oldest botanical garden in Europe, created in the early 1300s, when there was a medical school here. You’ll find it above Salerno’s medieval historic center. To get there, you take a public elevator, found diagonally across from the centro storico’s parking lot. The garden is made up of 6 terraces, filled with about 260 plant species, including such rarities as the legendary mandrake and ginseng. On the top terrace, is a Tea Room, La Tiseneria. Here you get a panoramic view of the port and sea, while you sip teas made from the garden’s herbs.
Salerno’s centro storico is one of the best preserved in Italy—with narrow, arched alleys (vicoli) and broad vias lined with delightful shops. The major attraction is the 11th century Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Matthew—his bones are kept in a crypt under the main altar. And on the way up to it, on Via Duomo, are good antique shops.
I always love hearing Arthur’s restaurant advice. “There are lots of pizzerias to choose from,” he says. Always the teacher, he explains the difference between Neapolitan and Salernitani pizza: “Salerno’s crust has a smaller ring, it’s less puffy and the crust is crisper than what you’ll find in Naples.” A great place for Neapolitan pizza in Salerno is Antica Pizzeria Vicolo della Neve (Vicolo della Neve 24, 089 225705, closed Wed). Neve means “snow” and the vicolo got its name because in olden days the tunnel beneath the street was used to store ice, wrapped in straw, that was hauled down from the surrounding mountains by mules. In addition to pizza, you can order good oven-baked dishes here–such as stuffed peppers, salt cod and potatoes, meatballs, or pasta fagioli.
For great Salerno style pizza, if you’re feeling adventurous, Arthur’s advice is to head to O Paisano (Via Bottiglieri di Giovi 19, 84133 Salerno, 089 750861), in the hills on the outskirts of town, where you can also enjoy delicious fritti (fried antipasti).
Salerno’s best shopping is in the centro storico on Via dei Mercanti, where you’ll find unique stores selling jewelry, locally made leather goods, and hats. You also should stop for dolce at Pasticceria Pantaleone (Via dei Mercanti 77, closed Tues). 
It’s not a sit down place, but you can pick up goodies to go, such as baba or Scazzetta del Cardinale—Salerno’s signature cake filled with lemon cream, covered with strawberry-flavored icing. Mercanti eventually becomes Corso Vittorio Emanuele (the more modern part of town), where you’ll find traditional Italian chain stores, such as Benetton and La Feltrinelli.
“And join in on the passegiatta, that starts around 5:30, along Via dei Mercanti and the surroundings,” says Arthur. “On Saturday nights the streets fill up with the 20 to 30 year olds, spilling out from the bars…”
Grazie mille for taking us to yet another delicious, vibrant place, Arturo!
*For more info about Arthur Schwartz, Italy, and Cook at Seliano custom vacations, go to www.thefoodmaven.com.
GOLDEN DAY SIXTY-EIGHT: Sorrento with Mary Sherman Indelli
I always enjoy dinners with my friend Mary Sherman Indelli, where we trade stories of our Italian adventures. Mary has been in the travel biz for over 35 years. She was inspired by her passion for her favorite country to create ItalyItalyItaly, a company that offers customized tours in every region for groups or individuals. I envy Mary’s frequent research trips, where she hops around from countryside villas to boutique city hotels, checks out top wineries, cooking classes, and tour guides–and then comes home with loads of up-to-date contacts and experiences, so she can create itineraries that suit each client. “I always give travelers a selection to choose from and budget options, so they can decide where they want to save and where they want to splurge,” Mary tells me.
One of Mary’s favorite places is Sorrento, on the Amalfi Coast. As she puts it, “Sorrento is perfectly positioned so travelers can base themselves there, and without packing and unpacking, have a relaxing time taking day trips to Pompeii, Naples, the islands of Capri or Ischia, and the coastal villages of Positano and Ravello.
I’m grateful she’s joined in to share her Golden Day in this piece of Paradiso…
A wonderful place to stay in Sorrento is the Bellevue Syrene. It was built over a Roman villa, and was once a private home, so it has lots of history and an intimate feeling–65 rooms, and each one is different.
The hotel’s loggia, draped with wisteria, is extraordinary. The view of Mount Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples from there is one of the best in Italy–my husband and I couldn’t drink in enough of it–we never wanted to leave! After a breakfast there, relax on the hotel’s private sunbathing deck, take a morning swim, or indulge in a spa treatment.
Late morning we love to explore the little shops and caffes in the back alleys of Sorrento, or take a drive to the next town, Massa Lubrense, to walk on their pathways among the lemon and orange trees.
For lunch, head to Piazza Tasso, Sorrento’s main square. There you’ll find Pizzeria Aurora , or their sister restaurant, O’Canonico, next door, both of which are beloved by locals as well as tourists. They are family run–casual, authentic, and the pizzas made in the wood burning oven are fantastic. Some think their waiters have an attitude, but that is the Italian way. I always show my appreciation for their food and service and they treat me like a queen.
In the afternoon, go on a boating adventure with Captain Gianni Tedesco. Gianni, a native, is the perfect guide for a circle around the magical island of Capri. 
He’ll stop at hidden grottoes and bays for you to swim in, and take you to the major attractions–such as the Grotta Azzura=Blue Grotto. His boat is set up with music, drinks, and his mother’s homemade limoncello, that you can enjoy while lounging on the deck. Click here for more info.
Back in Sorrento, enjoy sunset cocktails at the Bellevue Syrene loggia.
Before or after dinner, join in on the passeggiata, which begins at Piazza Tasso and goes down Corso Italia. You can chat with the locals, stop for an espresso or a gelato and blend in with the life style of southern Italy.
If you’d like to splurge for a sophisticated dinner, make a reservation at the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria. 
The dining room is splendid, with frescoed vaulted ceilings. The food is all made with local products and fresh caught seafood. The hotel is built over another former Roman villa, and Enrico Caruso had a suite there. The property is surrounded by orange trees, and once you enter their gate at Piazza Tasso, you feel as if you have entered another world. Down the lane, you arrive at a very elegant and charming villa hotel overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and the Port of Sorrento.
An alternative for dinner, also a splurge, is Il Buco, (Rampa Marina Piccola 5, 06 0598 21212), where the food is out of this world, and you are treated like royalty.
If you’d like a more casual dinner, Ristorante Ruccio, (Piazza Marinai d’Italia 33, 081 807 4069), is the best for dining right on the water. This family owned spot will pamper you the minute you walk through the door.
Grazie for the inspiration, Mary!
GOLDEN DAY SIXTY-SEVEN: Poppea’s Villa
One stop before Pompeii on the Circumvesuviana train is Torre Annunziata, where you’ll discover Oplontis–an amazing villa where the Empress Poppea Sabina, (second wife of Nero) lived.
She was a high-maintenance woman, who insisted upon being carried about by mules shod with golden shoes, and needed to bathe daily in donkey milk, or as some say, the milk of 500 asses.
Romans would come to relax in her villa, that was considered the suburbs of busy Pompeii. Wandering about, through the salons, dining rooms, and interior gardens, you’ll get a feel of what life was like before the whole shebang got covered in lava in that famous 79 a.d. eruption…
Oplontis is much less tourist-filled than Pompeii. In the quiet, with the birds twittering in the oleander trees, let your imagination run free, fantasizing of ancient days…lavish banquets, wild pool parties, romantic trysts…with these frescoes in the background:
Back in Naples, hold on to the dramatic spirit with dinner at Da Dora (Via Ferdinando Palasciano 30, 081 680 519), where the house seafood pasta is divine, and the waitress who bursts into song is so soulful you may find yourself teary-eyed…
Click here for Oplontis Tourist info.
GOLDEN DAY SIXTY-SIX : Positano with Bell’Avventura
As the dark, cold days of winter approach. I am dreaming of sunny, warm days in the heavenly village of Positano on the Amalfi Coast. Which is why it’s wonderful to have Rosa Bella, creator of the gorgeous Bell’Avventura blog as our guest. Rosa has lived in Positano for 25 years, and fills her blog with her delightful experiences and photos of its hidden corners.
It’s not only dreamy to browse through, but also a great resource if you’re planning a trip there–as in check out her Dare to Be Different in Positano post, where she leads readers to such spots as The Best Place for a Romantic Kiss in Positano.
Here’s Rosa with her Golden Day:
If there is only one thing you do in Positano, it’s get up early in the morning, step out onto your balcony and stop and savour the serenity of the moment. You won’t believe your eyes. Positano is made for strolling, swimming and people watching and there is no better moment in the day to soak in it’s splendor, soft light and vibrant colours.
Start the day on the balconies of Hotel Villa delle Palme ( B&B style) or the elegant Hotel Pasitea ( open all year) which offer affordable accommodation with dramatic views or if you want to live it up, let Le Sirenuse pamper you in luxury.
Positano was built to see the sea and be seen from the sea. If you can get to the beach for 8:30, the calm crystalline waters invite a lagoon like plunge before the 10am crowds arrive. Grab a canoe from Pupetto beach bar hire and paddle to stop far from the shores and watch the morning light move across the town as it breaks across the top of the mountain.
Sergio Bella’s Da Adolfo beach restaurant should be your next stop for a casual lunch and swim at Laurito beach with the free ferry trip from the main dock edging along the coastline under the magnificent villas.
Pick and reserve a table as soon as you get there. This hidden gem of Positano is more popular than you’d believe, its reputation based solely on the fresh food and the family traditions. Start with grilled mozzarella on lemon leaves for antipasto, and follow it with a pumpkin and mussel pasta. Wash it down with a jug of vino and peaches. Then take your pick of the best grilled or marinated fish in Positano enjoying views that stretch to Capri. It’s a must!
Catching the first boat back at 4pm, grab a gelato at the Bucca di Bacco and stroll up to the Mulini through the via Saracino stopping at the clothes boutiques in the alley ways.
Find Giovanni’s’s typical handmade sandals made to measure in ten minutes at La Botteguccia di Positano or treat yourself to comfortable Capri style leather loafers in a Crayola range of colours at Tre Danari at the bottom of the church steps. If you are looking for genuine Positano hand made soaps which capture the perfumes wafting from Amalfi Coast gardens, look no further than Saponissimo.
The majolica domed Church of La Madonna del Rosario at the top of the stairs offers an ornate gilded interior with the ruins of a Roman Villa in the back entrance. Coming up from the Church, I like peeking into the lush gardens of Hotel Palazzo Murat under the purple bougainvillea pergola before heading further up the road past the Mulini bus stop to admire the colourful ceramic shops on the corner in front of Garage Mandara.
An evening meal at the family run Il Saraceno d’Oro will top the day with the best pizza in Fornillo or a delicious plate of scialatielli allo scoglio.
In this lively restaurant, appreciated by the locals for their takeaway pizzas, Daniele breaks spontaneously into song and Marilu` welcomes guests as if it were into the heart of her family. I always finish off with my favourite dessert la delizie di limone.
A moonlit walk down to the main beach for a late drink (of course you’ve planned the trip to include a full moon)and people watching at La Brezza café caps off the night.
Book Alberico from Rainbow Limos car service to be there the next day to whisk you off to your next destination. That is, if you can bear to leave!
Grazie mille Rosa, for the inspiring post! We’re packing our bags…
