Golden Day Ninety: Bliss at Torre Maizza, Puglia
As summer is approaching, we move on to Puglia, the region in Italy’s heel, home to some of Italy’s best beaches.
My first visit to Puglia was many years ago, in the month of May, when cherry season was at its peak…
One Golden Day I’ll always treasure was in Savelletri di Fasano, near the forests of Fasano, south of Bari. I stayed with my gal friend Sheila at Torre Maizza, a masseria (former farm estate) from the 16th century, that’s been luxuriously renovated with beautiful guest accommodations, gorgeous grounds, a golf course, delicious restaurants, and a spa.
Taking in all the beauty on the property in the morning was energizing. We considered taking a swim in the infinity pool, but opted instead to take a bike ride and pedal the 10 minute flat road to the private beach, past amazing olive groves.
The Coccaro Beach Club was heavenly…
There was a restaurant there where we enjoyed salt encrusted fish with white wine from the nearby Locorotondo vineyards. (They also serve excellent sushi.)
Back at Torre Maizza, we indulged in afternoon spa treatments. Here Puglia’s olive oil, herbs and vegetables grown on the property are incorporated into their treatments.
Sheila got slathered with a creamy paste of fava beans, then took a steam in the Turkish bath. I got an herbal massage, that of course included olive oil. Then we both went back for non-traditional (for an Italian spa) Kembiki Do facials. This is an ancient Japanese deal where the sweet technicians “reorganize the facial architecture”–as the brochure write-up says. It involved such an intense massage they even put on rubber gloves to stick their fingers in our mouths to rub out marionette lines. It was amazing to see the effect in the mirror afterwards–I should try this at home.
Feeling very pretty, we dined on local specialties that are given a creative spin at the property’s Le Palme restaurant.
A Blissful Golden Day–Pugliese style…
Golden Day Eighty-Nine: Louise Wright’s Camogli
One of my dearest friends is the wonderful Louise Wright, a card carrying Italophile, who received a degree in Italian Culture and Language from the Universita’ per Stranieri in Siena in 2003. For many years, whenever we are not traveling, we have a Friday afternoon tradition of calling each other up and talking and reading to each other in Italian.
Louise has been traveling to Italy for decades–visiting friends, discovering new places, and always seeking beautiful experiences that immerse her into authentic Italian life. One of her favorite spots is Camogli, a small seaside village on the Ligurian coast. I’m thrilled she’s joining in to share her advice for a Golden Day there…
I was first introduced to Camogli about 20 years ago while staying with my lovely Ligurian friend Patrizia and her family, who live a half-hour train ride south. The name, Camogli, comes from “le case delle moglie” (Houses of the Wives), as the town originated as a fishing village. It grew to be a maritime power: The City of a Thousand White Ships. Today the soul of its origins remains–you still see men coming out of the doorways at dusk and heading away from the tiny harbor in a small lighted procession of fishing boats. The town is a delight, with tall painted buildings and much natural beauty surrounding it.
It’s easily accessible by train, and a relaxing base for day trips to Genova, Portofino, Santa Margherita, and Chiavari. It’s bordered by Monte Portofino, a great place to hike.
Or you can take a boat to the medieval Abbazia di San Fruttuoso.
My Golden Day begins with foccacia from Revello Focacceria (Via Giuseppe Garibaldi 197/A), followed by a swim in the bay.
Then I’d take a short bus ride from Via Repubblica up to San Rocco (you may have to change at Ruta or make the pleasant, flat, walk from Ruta to San Rocco) and a half-hour hike down the trail to Punta Chiappa. (Bus schedules are posted at the bus stops).
There your reward is lunch at Trattoria del Mulino Da Drin, (Punta Chiappa-Camogli, 0185 770530, reservations a must, closed Tues in winter).
Da Drin has a glorious view, with a terrace overlooking the Golfo di Paradiso, fabulous seafood (spaghetti with anchovies) and my favorite, Pesto al Mandilli=a light-as-air “handkerchief” of hand-made pasta.
After lunch, a boat ride back to Camogli is fun and it’s very dramatic to return by sea.
Click here for the boat schedules or they are listed at the Camogli port. They even have trips to the Cinque Terre and Portovenere during July and August, although I don’t think I’d pick those busy months to visit Camogli. You can take the boat both ways from Camogli to Punta Chiappa, or if you’re feeling robust, you may hike round trip–there is a trail from Camogli to San Rocco and then on to Punta Chiappa.
Back in Camogli, the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta is worth a look.
It was built around 1200, and is quite beautiful inside. If you’re there on a weekend, you are sure to see a wedding–with elegant brides and grooms posing for photos.
Early evening, join the locals for the passeggiata along the seaside promenade, Via Garibaldi, with it’s exquisite sea and mountain views, and great people-watching. You may enjoy a gelato stop at Gelato e Dintorni (Via Garibaldi 104).
Or or an apertivo at the elegant Bar Primula, (Via Garibaldi 140, Tel: 0185 770 351).
Or head to the harbor for a cocktail at Bistingo Sea Bar (Piazza Colombo12, 0185 772 531 Closed Mon).
For a delicious dinner, I’d choose either Caffe del Teatro, (Piazza Matteotti 3, Reserve: 0185 772572, closed Thursdays)–a casual, budget-friendly place with indoor and outdoor tables that serves good pizza and salads…
Or Ristorante Camogliese (Via Garibaldi 78, Must reserve: 0185771086, Closed Wed, except July and August).
It faces the sea, with fabulous views. The best menu offerings are the local fish specialties and Pesto Trenette=pasta, potatoes, green beans and pesto.
Two hotels I’d recommend are, Hotel La Camogliese (Via Garibaldi 55, 0185771402)…
A simple old-school Italian place, right on the beach, with a lovely helpful management and delicious breakfast included in the price.
Or for something a bit more pricey, there’s the Hotel Casmona, (Salita Pineto 13, 0185 770015), that’s very nice as well.
*A couple of other tips:
–The Tourist Office (Via XX Settembre 29), is down the road to your right upon exiting the train station. They have trail maps for Monte di Portofino as well as Camogli.
–On arrival at the Camogli train station, the steep steps to Via Garibaldi are a bit daunting, especially with luggage. If you are staying at La Camogliese, follow the road left, (Via Cuneo), winding down towards Via Garibaldi–it’s much easier to roll that luggage downhill on the road, rather than take the steps.
Grazie mille for the inspiration Luisa!Golden Day Eighty-Eight: Matteo Scandolera’s San Remo
The first image that comes to mind when I hear San Remo, is the annual Music Festival, that’s been going on in this elegant seaside town since 1951.
This grand event has launched the careers of many of my favorite Italian singers, including Andrea Bocelli who won the Newcomer’s Award there in 1994, with Il Mare Calmo della Sera. It’s always a kick to watch the videos that include international stars–such as this one from 2012 of Patti Smith singing “Because the Night”.
Matteo Scandolera was born and grew up in San Remo. He’s now the Director of LiguriaHomes, a top-notch real estate company that offers rentals and sales of beautiful properties all along the Italian Riviera.
I’m thrilled to have Matteo join in to give his insider’s advice for a Golden Day in his homeland:
There are many beautiful places in San Remo, the capital town of the Italian Riviera of the Flowers.
Not to be missed is the old town, called La Pigna, where you’ll wander through steep streets, covered archways, amidst little squares and ancient churches–a glimpse of Medieval times.
In the newer part of town, you’ll see how this fishermen’s village was turned into an elegant seaside resort, during the Belle Epoque period. Towards the latter part of it–1905–the town’s famous Casino was built.
Also, there is this very unusual Russian Church. In 1874 tsarina Maria Alexandrovna spent a winter in San Remo and raved about it so much back home, that the town became crowded with Russian visitors. This Orthodox church was completed in 1913 and is similar to the Church of of San Basilio in Moscow.
There is an amazing 24km path along the sea (the old railway road), that runs from San Remo to San Lorenzo del Mare. It’s perfect for walking or biking–you can rent your bike at Nolo Bici.
Or during summer, you can go whale watching to observe dolphins and whales in their natural environment, and enjoy the fabulous view of the coastline seen from the sea
You can eat and drink very well in San Remo.
The best cafè in town is Cafè Ducale on the glamorous Corso Matteotti (#145), the main via of San Remo.
Try the focaccia and typical West Ligurian pizza, called Sardenaira (with tomatoes, anchovies, onions or garlic and black olives), at Focacceria Maggiorino (Via Roma #183).
And believe me: The best gelato EVER is in a tiny shop, Gelateria Vecchia Matuzia (Corso Matuzia #97).
As far as where to go for lunch and dinner, skip the tourist traps on the Old Port=Porto Vecchio. Try the Mini Bar da Antonio, (across from the beach, Corso Trento 17). It’s more of a kiosk than a restaurant, where the pasta with fish is incredible and the prices are budget friendly.
For the best pizza, go to Spaccanapoli (Via Bixio 31).
For more formal, 5-star dining, head to the nearby town of Ospedaletti and reserve a table at Byblos (Lungomare C. Colombo 6, 0184 689002).
Or Acquerello (Corso Regina Margherita 25, 0184 68 2048, Closed Monday and Tuesday).
The best place to stay is the Hotel Nazionale on Corso Matteotti, with amazing views over the sea and the Casino.
Grazie mille Matteo!
Golden Day Eighty-Seven: Pleasures of Rapallo
We’re moving on to the lovely seaside town of Rapallo, between Portofino and Chiavari, tucked into the Tigullio Gulf. I remember my first visit there, struck by the elegance of the promenade, imagining the writers, D.H. Lawrence, Ezra Pound, and Hemingway–who spent inspirational time here…
The art of lacemaking has been going on in Rapallo since the Middle Ages, when women who mended their husband’s fishing nets began to turn their skills into an art form that produced beautiful things. I still have a sachet I bought at the charming Emilio Gandolfi shop (Piazza Cavour 1), that’s been run by the same family since 1920, and exports their products all over the world.
Danis Konstantilakis, from Greece, who has fallen in love with Liguria and created the Cinque Terre Villages website, has joined in to share her favorite places for a Golden Day in this little piece of Ligurian paradise:
One sight you can’t miss, dominating the harbor, is the Castello sul Mare (Castle-on-the-Sea). It was built in 1551 as a protection against pirate attacks and now is open sporadically for visiting exhibitions.
Rapallo’s seaside promenade, Lungomare Vittorio Veneto, is the centerpiece of town, lined with palm trees, art nouveau style buildings, restaurants, and caffes.
The Chiosco on the Lungomare is an old fashioned band stand, where you can often hear live music. And be sure to stop at Frigidarium (Lungomare Vittorio Veneto 4), for the best gelato in town. It’s a small shop owned by Chicco (Francesco) Barbetta and his wife Anna, where the freshest ingredients are used to make delicious treats.
Another pretty place is the Villa Tugullio, surrounded by a landscaped park, where indoor and outdoor concerts are held. Inside is a Lace Museum and International Library.
In the summer months, you can catch a Tigullio Ferry from the harbor and enjoy beautiful coastline views, maybe even stopping in Santa Margherita Ligure or Portofino. Click here for schedules.
Or you may want to walk or take a funivia=cable car from Piazza Solari (8 minute ride, runs about every 1/2 hour) up to the top of Montallegro Sanctuary, where the Blessed Virgin Mary was believed to have appeared to a peasant.
For lunch, dinner, or afternoon snack, enjoy Rapallo’s best seafood at Trattoria da Mario (Piazza Garibaldi 23, 0185 51737, Closed Wed, dinner reservations a must).
A reasonably priced, elegant and comfortable hotel, steps from the promenade, is Hotel Riviera. It was built in 1905, aand it’s where Ernest Hemingway wrote a short story called “The Cat in the Rain.”, about an American couple on vacation in Rapallo.
Or if you want something more luxurious, with modern rooms, a garden, spa, and fitness center, check into the 4-star Europa Hotel, right in the center of town.
Grazie Danis!
Golden Day Eighty-Six: Fezzano…Lunch on the Gulf of the Poets
Simonetta Cattaneo Vespucci was my inspiration to visit the Gulf of the Poets. This Renaissance Beauty, the Marilyn Monroe of Florence, was believed to be the model for Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and many of his other paintings.
Simonetta arrived in Florence at the age of 16, the bride of Marco Vespucci, who was a cousin of Amerigo, the explorer. Her fans called her La Bella Simonetta, and said she was from Portovenere, where the Romans believed Venus arose from the sea.
Actually, Simonetta’s family was from Fezzano, a Ligurian village north of Portovenere, bordering the Gulf of The Poets. I took the bus (20 minutes) from Portovenere to seek out the Cattaneo Villa in Fezzano, which I had read was built in 1400, and was in the process of restoration.
The first distraction, opposite the Fezzano bus stop, is this gorgeous cemetery.
The village was quiet that April day, just a few fishing boats in the cove…
At the caffe, leather-tanned fisherman were drinking campari-prosecco pick-me-ups out of small champagne glasses. When I asked about the Cattaneo villa, I just got blank looks.
I explored the upper part of town, found the St. John the Baptist church, alleys…scaffolding…nobody about except some elderly signoras walking their dogs…no signs of the Cattaneo villa…
Back at the marina, the menu from Ristorante Mistral (Via Gallotti 40, 018 715 09533) caught my eye.
I peeked in to find Chef Giovanna and waitress Stella, a charming, welcoming duo.
They set up a table for me facing the beautiful view, under an umbrella pine. I asked for pesce, and this most beautiful lunch arrived…
Followed by Walnut Torte…
Naturally, chatting with Giovanna and Stella, I asked about the Cattaneo place…again the blank looks came at me. Allora, the mystery remains… I’ll be back…Striking out on the first try simply leads to its allure. And in the meantime, Grazie to Simonetta for a delicious Golden Day.
Last November, Susan Van Allen, author of 100 Places in Italy Every Woman Should Go, took a group of women to experience a Golden Week in Tuscany…
It was Glorious!
“This trip was clearly designed by an artist–everything flowed along beautifully–a delicious, transformational experience of La Dolce Vita!”–Helen, San Francisco, California
We stayed at Il Borgo di Villa Bossi Pucci, a half hour south from Florence…
Every morning a breakfast basket arrived for us to enjoy the view…
Then we set out for adventures:
The Arezzo Antique Market, where the whole town is transformed with vendors filling the vias of the Medieval town…
And saw amazing Piero della Francesca frescos
We toured, tasted, and had lunch at a winery in Chianti…
And since it was just in time for the harvest, we visited a frantoio to experience olives freshly pressed
We indulged for a day of bliss at the luxurious Grotta Giusti Spa, bathing in the thermal springs, treating ourselves to relaxing massages, and steaming in the natural grotta…
We had an amazing time in Florence…
“Fantastic! An great combination of busy and relaxing.”–Lisa, Chatham, Illinois
With masterpieces…
The Mercato Centrale
Shopping…
Il Ponte Vecchio…
We fell in love with Lucca,
And in Pisa,
we discovered it’s not just about The Tower,
Steps away are amazing frescos in the Campo Santo
The Food and Wine=Extraordinary!
We even had a Cooking Class, where we learned how to make pasta…
“Amazing…All my passions were enlightened at each breathtaking stop…I recommend it highly.”–Rita, Estero, Florida
The Golden Week in Tuscany is custom designed for Women to have an Insider’s Experience of Tuscany, with Susan Van Allen leading, sharing her passion for this country she adores, introducing you to her dear friends, and helping you discover Italy’s feminine appeals every step of the way…
It’s happening again: November 2-9, 2013
Trip Includes: 7 nights’ in lovely countryside accommodations, delicious meals, daily adventures, and more…
Price: From $3595 per person
Limited to 14 participants
Click Here for more details…
And Here for Susan Van Allen’s “Why Women Love Italy” You Tube
One of my 2012 highlights was meeting Anna Merulla in the centro storico of Genoa on a spring Sunday. I’d found Anna through her Beautiful Liguria blog, where she gives us an insider’s view of the region and expresses her passion for the food, history, and culture with gorgeous photos and recipes–including one for risotto and porcini, that is calling out to me this cold winter day. Beautiful Liguria is also Anna’s travel concierge company that offers everything from tour planning, hiking excursions, weddings services, cooking lessons, and personal shopping in this region.
It was a Golden Day for me to meet Bella Anna in person on the steps of Genoa’s San Lorenzo Cathedral–she’s absolutely charming, overflows with enthusiasm for her beloved home, and was the perfect guide to take me through the labyrinth of Genoa’s Centro Storico.
This unique area, squeezed between the port and Renaissance palaces, is said to be the largest Medieval city center in Europe. It was created by rich merchant seamen of Genoa’s 13th and 14th centuries heydays, when each family staked out separate territories, building their own churches, palaces, and squares—cramming in additions as they grew more prosperous. Dog-legged alleys (called caruggi), that were once the scene of chases and back stabbings between feuding families, are now enchanting to poke around and discover centuries old artisan shops, bakeries, boutiques, and cozy restaurants.
Starting off in Via Soziglia you’ll certainly notice Pietro Romanengo fu Stefano. Its windows display candied fruit, chocolate, bonbons, preserves, and desserts. The products are made with the same recipes used centuries ago by the “confiseur-chocolatier”. In fact, the company was founded in the second half of the 18th century. It’s had a great reputation all over Genoa since it opened, and provided the sweets for Prince Umberto’s wedding with Margherita of Savoy in 1868. Today the store is internationally famous, still preserving its traditions and high quality.
Next door, in Piazza Soziglia, there’s Fratelli Klainguti, a bar/pasticceria shop dating to 1826, where the composer Giuseppe Verdi loved to spend his time tasting the pastries. Here they serve not only caffè under crystal chandeliers, but also a wide variety of cakes, pastries, and homemade gelato.
Next, on Via San Bernardo, you’ll find the old shop Drogheria Torielli (Via di San Bernardo, 32). The store is a kingdom of scents and flavors–from spices, herbs, homemade chocolate, tea, rice, imported curries, essences and body care products that come from all over the world. I love stepping into this place with its white wooden shelves, on which are arranged all the products with hand written labels in a beautiful calligraphy. The owners are two brothers, the fratelli Torielli, who have served their clients for fifty years.
Walking north on Via Macelli di Soziglia, you’ll find typical butcher shops, fish shops and greengrocers. When you get to Vico del Fieno, you’ll see the chicken shop Polleria Anne e Sergio. Entering the store is like stepping into the past. The shop is exactly as it was on the day they opened in 1910, with marble counters where the chickens are cut by the owners any way a customer wishes. The quality of the food is high and the products are fresh from the farmer.
You can find stockfish at the famous Bottega dello Stoccafisso in Via Macelli di Soziglia. It arrives in Genoa from Norway and is soaked for eight days in the large marble sinks of the store. After this stage the fish is ready and it can be prepared as you like. Genoese love Stoccafisso (Stockfish) and Baccalà (Dried salted cod) and they use them as basic ingredients in many Ligurian recipes, such as Buridda,, a stewed stockfish dish that can be accompanied with a white wine from the Cinque Terre.
At the Panificio Grissineria Claretta (Via della Posta Vecchia 12r), you can taste one of the best focaccia of Genova. The shop was opened in 1952 by a family of bakers from Turin. Their secret is preparing their products with high quality ingredients. Here you can taste classic focaccia and focaccia with onion (Focaccia con la cipolla) from 7 in the morning to 7 p.m. Traditionally Genoese eat focaccia with cappuccino for breakfast, for lunch, and in the evening with a glass of wine.
Look for an old door in Vicolo dei Castagna, with a hand-lettered wooden plate on which is written “Viganotti”, that welcomes you into Antica Bottega Romeo Viganotti, a traditional chocolaterie where recipes from the founders of the early 20th century are still used. Even the equipment is orginal! I assure you that the scent of sugar and cocoa will capture you as soon as you enter the store. You will feel like in the shop of the film “Chocolat” by Lasse Hallstrom.
If you have visited the Aquarium and are searching for a quick lunch of fresh seafood and farinata, right across Via Sottoripa, you’ll find the perfect place: Friggitoria Carega, a “Stand Up Trattoria”.
Or for a delicious meal, go to Ristorante e Prie Rosse (Via di Ravecca 54R, telefono 010.2512591, closed Sunday at lunch), that serves meat, salumi, mushrooms, and cheese from all over Italy, along with very good wines. The best thing to do here is to ask the waiter’s advice for the best offerings of the day.
A wonderful place to stay is the Unique B&B Genova, located in the hilltop Castelletto area. Rooms are romantically designed, with views of the city and sea below, and the hosts will give you a warm welcome to Genoa.
Grazie Anna, I can’t wait to return to intriguing, delicious Genoa!
